Cut off by roads, the only way to access Iquitos is via boat or plane. So you would think it to be a small place, however, this city has a population of half a million and it is buzzing. An expansive concrete jungle in the middle of the ... Jungle! It seems to have as many tuc tucs as people, a symptom of being cut off from main roads and with an unusual economy, shipping small vehicles is logistically much easier. Do not be fooled however there are vehicles here also, a necessity for the development of a growing city.
Visiting Iquitos Peru - Introduction
This city sits just west of a meander from the mighty Amazon river. As you approach by boat, houses that are built off of timber stilts sunk into the silty river bed below are the first signs of the city that looms beyond. Timber homes with either thatch or tin roofs. The sort of architecture you would expect to see in such a place. However, walk to the centre of this city and you find a city of concrete. Modern development that is not attractive, but functional. Yet as you begin to look a little but deeper we are able to find churches in front of plazas this is extremely Spanish and wait ... cafes with detailing that looks suspiciously art nouveau how extremely French! The mind wonders, isn't this European detailing?
The answer is simply, yes!
The architecture of Iquitos suddenly becomes a window to the past thats tells a story of its history, almost as clearly as the rings of a tree tells its age.
So what is this story? Why do we find Spanish and French architecture here, well that is what we are going to go into now. Lets start at the beginning.
Visiting Iquitos Peru
As to be expected of any Amazonian community, Iquitos started life as the home to small indigenous groups. These groups would have built their homes from the materials of the land. Timber, with roofs made up of palm leaves or vines. As time moved on people would learn how to elevate there homes above the ground plane allowing a much closer connection with the water. The elevated homes had an additional advantage of allowing air to pass below the floor a sustainable way of cooling the homes from the hot humid rainforest.
If the homes could be elevated, then the next natural thing to follow would be the pathways. You no longer need a boat to visit your friends or family, communities became literally tied together.
This sort of structure still welcomes you into Iquitos. There is of course more modern port fronts of concrete and steel, however these traditional homes are still the most prominent structures that seemingly walk out from the land and into the waters. Today the homes are not just timber and thatch but also covered in more modern sheet materials like corrugated iron. This always seems to have an element of rust, the reddy brown colours adding to the texture of the roof-scape before the calm of the water takes over.
As you move through the wooden structures to find the land beyond, the light timber architecture gives way to the hard grey of concrete.
The step away from this more traditional way of building could be suggested to have arrived along with the Spanish in the 18th Century.
The city of Iquitos was officially founded in 1864, long after the initial period of Spanish colonisation in the americas.
The story goes that the developed from a Jesuit mission established in the 18th century. The mission was aimed at converting and controlling the local indigenous populations, including the Iquito people, after whom the city is named. The area also acted as some what of a port, a strategic place for the departing missionaries to other jungle regions.
Spanish town planning would have been Town planning techniques and political order may have been implemented however the missionaries were banished bringing a new era of Iquitos being a isolated.
Visiting Iquitos Peru - The Rubber Boom
The most significant transformation in Iquitos' architecture occurred during the Rubber Boom (1880s-1912).
Rubber became essential due to its unique properties and the industrial advancements of the time.
Some of the industries included the automotive (car tyres), fashion (things like shoes) and industry (electrical wire insulation). The boom brought investment but it also lead to the exploitation of indigenous populations, who were often subjected to brutal working conditions, forced labour.
As a lot of the investment came from Europe, the architecture of Europe followed. Perhaps the most prominent house in all of Iquitos is that of Casa de Fierro or the 'iron house' although unknown, some rumour this was designed by non other than Gustave Eiffel, the owner of the metal works company responsible for the lesser know .... Eiffel Tower.
However the iron works were not the only architectural property to come from Europe. Facades began to be tiled as a sign of opulence and wealth and large villa style homes were also built like Morey House (below), which today you can stay at or grab food and a coffee. Below you can see the European styling including the tiled facades, arched window forms, and the elegant iron work to balconies. You can find a lot of this style on the eastern coast and around the main plaza (See map below).
Below you can see a beautiful cafe that we stumbled across and was blown away by the intricate detailing of. Beautiful floor tiles, to stunning timber balustrades with brass tips to the black metal spindles. Wide format floor planks and very elegant light fixtures and fittings. It feels like you could be sitting in a Cafe in paris and the coffee and cake was just as good.
The final thing to come from the rubber boom are an extensive amount of churches. These much like the rest of Iquitos are a blend of styles. The most prominent church in the city is that of Catedral de Iquitos or St. John the Baptist Cathedral, Iquitos. This is a neo-gothic cathedral located just of the main plaza of Plaza de Armas de Iquitos. There are so many churches in Iquitos we will dedicated a post just to the churches.
Visiting Iquitos Peru - Boom to now
The rubber boom would die off, this was due to global competition, but Iquitos being buried deep in the Amazon rainforest also did not help! The creation of synthetic rubber also acted as a bit bottle stopper removing the need for costly exports and an extensive work force.
Iquitos has been developing, but under the standards that are typical in tougher economical conditions. More sporadic architecture made up of reinforced concrete and the imported sheet materials. From the turn of the Century the population has increased from 360,000 to nearly half a million people.
With a growing city, sustainable tourism has been identified as a positive way to increase the economy of the area, but due to its isolated position the challenges for this city.
Perhaps the traditional way of building can become a iconic and attractive draw for amazon tourism pulling people to a different experience from the iconic and globally renown Cusco and Machu Picchu.
So now you know why you are greeted by an eclectic mix of traditional timber buildings, christian churches, Spanish town planning, European styling and modern concrete construction in the unique city of Iquitos. Here are some of the spots mentioned in todays blog post.
I hope this has been insightful and helps you understand the city of Iquitos better for your stay.
Take care of your fellow explored until the next one.
Jack
For the curious explorer
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