Tulum, located on the eastern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo, is renowned for its stunning Caribbean coastline, well-preserved Mayan ruins, and vibrant culture. The history of Tulum spans centuries, from its origins as a significant Mayan port city to its current status as a popular tourist destination for backpackers and holiday makers alike.
Today I am going to put my experienced architects hat on and look at the architecture of this Tulum from its origin story and its demise before its second coming as a eco/ bohemian holiday hotspot. I am also going to ask the question that no one else seems to be asking. Is Tulum really an eco paradise, or is it just good marketing fooling us?
Before we get into this make sure to check out our blog post Tulum in one day for some suggestions of ways to spend 24 hours in Tulum.
Ancient Tulum: The Mayan Period
Tulum was originally known as Zama, meaning "City of Dawn," reflecting its position facing the sunrise. Archaeological evidence suggests that Tulum was inhabited as early as 564 AD.
The city’s location along the coast made it an important port for trade within the Mayan civilisation. Its proximity to both land and sea routes allowed Tulum to flourish as a hub for commerce and cultural exchange.
One of the most prominent structures in Tulum is El Castillo (The Castle), a large pyramid perched on a cliff overlooking the sea. This structure served both as a temple and a lighthouse for maritime traders. The archeological site is also home to other notable structures, including the Temple of the Frescoes, which contains murals depicting Mayan gods and cosmology but fundamentally this site sits entirely separately to modern day Tulum.
If you have listened to our podcast series on the history of Mexico then you will know of the arrival of the Spanish in the early 16th century. This marked the beginning of Tulum's decline. The city was eventually abandoned, and its ruins were reclaimed by mother earth.
The Mayan site would not be rediscovered until the early 1840s by explorers John Lloyd Stephens and illustrator Frederick Catherwood. This would spark a new interest in the site, however it would still not be the tourist hot spot we see today.
Tulum began to attract adventurous travelers and archaeologists in the early 20th century, drawn by its historical significance and natural beauty. Limited infrastructure kept tourism numbers modest until the latter half of the century so what changed?
Modern Tulum, The Tourist Mecca
The one major change to turn the Yucatan peninsular into the tourist mecca we see today was simply the construction of the Cancún International Airport in the 1970s. This combined with the development of the Riviera Maya significantly boosted tourism in the region. It improved accessibility and made Tulum an attractive destination for international traveler's.
More recently, the tourism effect would be doubled down when during the covid 19 epidemic, Mexico would be one of a few countries that kept its borders relatively open for travel.
Social media platforms would further compound this. Influencers and celebrities frequently shared their experiences, showing themselves against the golden beaches and blue skies during those pandemic times. For those in 'lock down' a holiday turned into the thing of dreams only. Yet sitting at home, not knowing when the world would 'reopen' but working away and saving money, Mexico and its loose regulations on its borders during covid turned it into the land of possibility. The though of "if I can just get a flight to Mexico" was not far from many. When I finally arrived and asked fellow explorers why they were here in Mexico, the answer would usually be ... "because I can be here".
This meant that tourists would flock to the Yucatan from all parts of the world. The hospitality sector and its economy booming when many others were struggling or dying totally. Tulum would benefit from this and see its economy firing on all cylinders. As previously mentioned however the modern town of Tulum is set away from the majestic Mayan ruins, so is it as exciting and cool as all the hype?
Is Tulum is an eco-tourism haven?
When people hear the word Tulum they often think eco friendly. To get to the point here, I am going to blow a hole in this thought process from the Architectural point of view.
The modern town of Tulum is architecturally nothing special. A mass of reinforced concrete buildings that rely on street art to bring character and colour.
Whilst the art work does work extremely well in heightening the 'cool factor' for a specific zone in Tulum, (check out our blog post, Tulum in one day for the specific zone I talk of to find the art) You have to ask the question, what about all this reinforced concrete is 'eco'!?
Cement, the key ingredient in concrete, is responsible for a significant portion of concrete’s environmental impact. The production of cement involves the calcination of limestone (calcium carbonate) in kilns, which releases a large amount of carbon dioxide (CO2). Not only this, the general life expectancy of an RC building is around 50-80 years. There are today research groups attempting to increase the life expectancy of RC buildings by putting a negative charge into the rebar components so they do not rust as readily! But a retrospective solution is usually the sign of bad design from day one. I do not want to go overly hard on Tulum here as this is not a local problem it is a global one.
The town itself is growing but generally your average tourist is not going to stay in the town, it is visited for a day trip or for the night life. Hotels are tucked away along the beach or in the depths of the thick forestry fronted with large gates and vast driveways for privacy and security. Laying on a beach lounger whilst sipping an 'organic smoothy' outside a brand new vast hotel of concrete and glass, are you really an eco tourist or are you simply playing at it. Is this a fabrication of what social media tells us eco tourism is! From the outside in it simply looks like tourism. I will draw your attention to one of the first posts I wrote when deciding to start blogging about travel, the site of Kasaguadua in Salento Colombia, have a read and let me know how you feel about the contrast as this site for me truly is 'eco'.
Yet the story we see in Tulum is a story we are all familiar of. The more tourists that arrive, the more structures are built, the more work there is in the area for locals. Additional housing is required quickly. All this can put a strain on the infrastructure and here in Tulum it is no different, pop ups of shacks can be found and there are places you should not go. But if it is controlled and if Mexico and Tulum can stay on top of development there could be an exciting opportunity to prosper long into the future.
Beyond the concrete, the new town of Tulum is a lot of fun and the geography of the area is stunning. The cenotes are a unique offering and the locals are welcoming and warm people. I would say the bohemian cool factor of Tulum stems from the locals who are laid back and in tune with the environment. Step outside of the town and you are met with a wash of dense forestry on one side and the ocean and beach to the other.
In my opinion, I do not feel Tulum can claim to be at the forefront of eco tourism, however it can claim to have beautiful beaches, some cool ruins to explore, fantastic food and one heck of a nightlife. It is not a place for an architectural pilgrimage in the same way its nearby Chichen Itza and it does not hold the Spanish charm of places like Merida on the North coast. For architecture, it has little to offer. The charm of this place comes from the small, the spontaneous and the artistic nature of its people who live here and the fact that it is not perfect. It would simply be a tragedy if Tulum became another Cancun.
Final thoughts on Tulum
Tulum’s pristine beaches and crystal-clear cenotes are major draws. Activities such as snorkeling, diving, and beach lounging are popular.
Tulum’s transformation from a lost ancient Mayan port city to a modern tourist hot spot is a remarkable transition. Its rich history, combined with natural beauty and cultural significance, continues to attract visitors from around the world. The city's has committed to sustainable tourism practices but it could do more particularly with new developments. A keen focus and an acute eye on how the town develops is going to be key to ensures that Tulum remains a vibrant, attractive and sustainable destination for future generations. Should it be on your travel itinerary, absolutely yes.
If you have been to Tulum recently and have found an eco haven let us know about it in the comments below.
Until the next one take care explorers. Jack.
For the curious explorer
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