For the architecture nuts among us here, heading to Mexico city is a dream destination. Remarkably, and although it does not feel that way, the Aztec history in and around Mexico city is reasonably(ish) recent and whilst the Spanish would cause chaos ... fortunately ... not all of the Aztec architecture was destroyed. That said, a lot was. Some of the aztec architecture being dismantled and used to build the Spanish catholic cathedrals and churches that would take centre stage in Mexico City. This was a display of dominance of both the Spanish and the faith of christianity. For those in the historic centre of Mexico City this is overtly on display where you can find yourself at the archaeological site of Tenochtitlan. This site is literally meters away from the Parroquia de la Asunción Sagrario Metropolitano (below) a catholic chaple attached to the Metropolitan Cathedral.
The deep red and brown stone has been turned into the facade of the chapel in a triangle formation that we do not really find across the rest of North & Central America. It is as though the architects of this particular chapel took it upon themselves to cement a proverbial f**k you to there predecessors. The battle here was not an easy one fill with many deaths, not just from battle, but from disease also. The chapel looks much like a pyramid that has been dissected, the guts removed and then implanted with something new, christianity. The bells and whistles accompany
This is my own interpretation and not factual, however if you look at the facade below, you can see the connection I am making.
So standing in Mexico City; a city where culture clashed and design metamorphosed into the bastardised child of Aztec and Spanish architecture, thinking to yourself "what shall I do tomorrow?" I am going to suggest the following, a day trip (and not an expensive one) that encompasses Plaza de las Tres Culturas, Teotihuacán and an obsidian factory (great for gifts to send home or a souvenir for yourself) and finally a stop off at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. You can also go into the original Lady of Guadalupe cathedral now called the 'Expiatory Temple to Christ The King' which is a beautiful piece of architecture. Find the tour here and read on for why its a great way to spend a day.
It is a trip that will leave you with a bit of a heavy head and needing an early night to digest everything you have taken in during the day, why? Largely because of what I have eluded to above, the complexity of the history, but also the complexity of designs and the shear quantity of variance and abundance. Its a similar feeling to when you have been looking at paintings in a museum for hours. You want to pay each the respect it deserves through deep observation and thought. This leads to that fatigue where you simple need to sit in a dark room and let your brain organise the information into various draws and closets. But for me that has always been the best kind of tired, as you slip beneath the sheets knowing you are more culturally enlightened than you were at the start of the day.
Tour Piramides de Teotihuacan
(Tenotihuacan and Our Lady of Guadalupe day tour)
Start of the day
Lets go to the beginning of the day. Waking up grabbing and a coffee and feeling fresh I strolled from my hostel (Hostel Mundo Joven Catedral) down to the pick up point where I met some fresh faced tourists looking just as excited for the day as myself.
Early Tip - If you choose to do this day out, make sure you have your day bag with water, suncream and a protective hat. It can get very hot and there is not much cover at Teotihuacan.
After meeting greeted by a happy tour guide we boarded the shuttle, with a few further people already on it and were transported to the first site, the Plaza de las Tres Culturas.
Plaza de las Tres Culturas
This site is an area where, as you can guess, 3 cultures combine, that of Spanish, mesoamerica and modern Mexican culture. To be entirely honest, the site is slightly underwhelming, however it perfectly embodies the richness of Mexico city and its complex narrative. The modernist structure looks as though it has been taken straight out of Le Corbusier' book 'Towards an Architecture' which is of certain interest to the die hard modernist voyeur, but not as architecturally engaging as some of the more historic sites.
There is more recent historical significance to this site. In 1968 a student-led uprising, marking a pivotal moment in Mexico. It unfolded against a backdrop of political unrest, calls for social reform, and cultural change ahead of the 1968 Olympic Games. The heart of the movement lies here in Tlatelolco at the Plaza de las Tres Culturas. I will not ruin the rest of the story as it is one that is better told at the scene of the harrowing events that took place. Below you will see the modernist building packed with on lookers watching the tense exchanges play out between students and the armed guard.
Once you have scoped this area out and listened to the stories of time gone by, you will be able to walk past the Mesoamerican archaeology and look at its interplay with the Spanish church and the modern block beyond. Its not the most stunning site you will ever see, however it is unique and steeped in history.
Then its back to the bus to hit the site that is a must visit when in Mexico City, Teotihuacan.
Obsidian Stop
Before arriving to the joyful archaeological site you will get to do a quick stop at a stone masons/ jewellers to get a better insight to learn about obsidian and its importance to the Aztec culture.
Known as the Aztec's "dark mirror." It was literally the backbone of their civilisation. Used in everything from surgical tools to warrior weapons, obsidian represented both life and death. The temple's obsidian deposits came from mines over 30 kilometers away! [Source: "Obsidian Sources of Central Mexico," American Antiquity, 2024].
The Architecture of Teotihucan
Teotihuacan is one of the most awe-inspiring archaeological sites in the world and a testament to ancient Mesoamerican ingenuity. The UNESCO World Heritage Site, often referred to as the "City of the Gods," flourished between 100 BCE and 650 CE and was one of the largest cities in the world during its peak.
Teotihuacan’s architecture is monumental and meticulously planned, reflecting a sophisticated urban design. The central Avenue of the Dead, a wide, ceremonial road, aligns perfectly with the cardinal points and connects its grand structures.
The Pyramid of the Sun, one of the largest pyramids in the world, offers breathtaking views and symbolises the site’s connection to cosmic order. Nearby, the Pyramid of the Moon anchors the city’s northern end, designed to harmonise with the surrounding mountains.
The intricately decorated Temple of the Feathered Serpent showcases stunning reliefs and evidence of ritual significance.
The site is a must visit and one that sits fondly in my mind, once you have been taken around the site it will be time for the third and final stop, the Basilica of our Lady of Guadalupe.
As a quick aside if you want to take part in something truly special at this site, you can book onto a hot air balloon adventure. Imagine looking at that Aztec history from the tranquility of a ballon. One for those not scared of heights but a magical ride for those with a little bit more to spend.
Basilica of our Lady of Guadalupe
Before getting to site 3 a quick note on something In a twist to the plot of Aztec vs Spanish I would like to throw in one additional element, and one I have mentioned in previous blog posts, Mexico city is sinking! Its sinking at quite a rate due to being built on an aquifer that is being depleted at an unsustainable rate.
The result is the modern piece of cathedral architecture, the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. This building unlike the Spanish baroque flamboyancy and Aztec ridgid geometries has its own beauty. It has become a piece of architecture that has come to be a loved by Mexicans after a rocky start. Much like the Eiffel Tower the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe was not widely accepted as a fine form of religious architecture. This in itself we could analyse for hours. Should we mimics architecture of time gone by? Create modern interpretations of religion with the most contemporary materials? Or simply throw it all out the window and do something entirely new. The basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe is most akin to the middle here, the architect defined the circular blue roof that cascades to a point as the flowing twirling skirt of the Lady of Guadalupe. This is help up in the air by some modernist/ slightly brutalist concrete elements which in turn are infilled with some beautiful stained glass.
If you have time you can join a queue here you can even get blessed with a priest flicking water at you from a podium! An architecture voyage and a blessing, what a day!
Finally once you have had a look around and inside of Basilica of Our Lady Guadalupe you can have a look at the original cathedral on the site. This one is really beautiful. As you walk inside you will feel the floor start to play with your sense of balance as it undulates and slants under your feet! Its an unusual feeling however the inside if truly beautiful.
The whole day seems like an odd mixture of past and present but it really works especially for the architecture fanatics, you will need a good night sleep to take in everything from the day.
If you take on this tour whilst in Mexico City please let us know how you got on and let us know how you found the architecture of the each site. As a reminder, you can find the tour piramides de teotihuacan here enjoy.
Make sure to check out my picks for the 10 best pieces of architecture to explore in Mexico City and the Best Mayan sites in the Yucatan to explore in Mexico architecture lovers.
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