Nicaragua to Costa Rica, a Backpackers Guide to the Peñas Blancas Border.
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Nicaragua to Costa Rica land border, everything you need to know
Need to knows for backpackers and explorers by a backpacker who honestly found it fairly simple, but there are still some things to be aware of!
The Peñas Blancas border crossing between Nicaragua and Costa Rica is the main overland route for travellers heading south from places like San Juan del Sur, Granada or Ometepe toward the cloud forests and surf towns of Costa Rica.
It's a little bit organised, a little bit chaotic, and definitely the kind of place where a bit of prep goes a long way. Expect border agents with varying moods, random luggage checks, and a few informal “helpers” looking to make a dollar off confused travellers.
Here’s everything you need to know to cross smoothly, plus a breakdown of my journey from Rivas to Liberia.
🛣️ The Journey: Rivas to Liberia via Peñas Blancas
I took this on from San Juan Del Sur. Hopping into a a jam-packed chicken bus heading for the border at Peñas Blancas we were told to head to the T junction and hop off the bus in La Virgen. This part worked well but the next bit did not. standing at the junction we were told a bus would turn up. We realised there was no bus stop and barely any traffic. Essentially, it was anyones guess as to when or if the bus would turn up! We crossed the road to see if we could speak to some of the locals living on the opposite side. They knew as much about the bus to the border as we did but one of them said if we paid him he would be able to take us to the border.
Now this guy was either a chancer and new the bus would arrive in 5 minutes or spotted an opportunity and went for it. Either way, we had a chat (myself and a few fellow backpackers I had met in San Juan Del Sur) and decided to take the guy up on his offer.
It was not overly expensive and the guy took us as close to the immigration centre no problems at all.
To do this with a bit more ease, we could have gone from Rivas or got a shuttle from San Juan Del Sur, but as all backpackers do, we were trying to stretch out money as far as humanly possible!
Once we arrived, we were swarmed by money changers, touts offering “VIP fast lane services” (spoiler: there’s no such thing), and a few very confused-looking backpackers asking, “Is this the way to Costa Rica?”
The Nicaraguan exit building was our first stop, a long-ish queue, but friendly staff and clear signage. Getting to the desk I paid my $3 USD municipal fee, then moved on to immigration for an exit stamp. This is the bit where you need your small bills as one trap can be the immigration offices stating they "Do not have change" A gentleman a few desks over to me was having this exact argument and not going about it quietly!
Once stamped out the next bit is super easy!
A short walk down the road you find a much smaller and more modest border. A lot quieter there were a couple of guards on the border who asked for one thing, proof of where we were staying in Costa Rica. Super simple as I had already booked into Hospedaje Dodero perfect for a layover before heading onward, check out the blog. I was asked to show proof of funds. I have a preloaded account I use for this, and that was it! Simple! My bags were not even checked!
For more tips and a hidden secret of Liberia. So what are the key need to knows.
💸 Border Fees & Costs
Nicaragua Exit Tax: 💵 $1 USD admin fee to a kiosk before immigration + $2 USD municipal fee. You can pay in cordobas or dollars, small notes help. Some buses include this, but always check.
Costa Rica Entry Fee: ✅ No official fee, but you must show:
Proof of onward travel
Proof of accommodation (sometimes)
Sufficient funds if asked (credit card or a bank balance screenshot works)
Some travellers have reported being asked to show $100 USD cash or card, just something to keep in mind.
🚨 Common Border Scams & How to Avoid Them
This crossing is calmer than Pasos Canoas, but a few cheeky tricks still exist:
🧢 Fake Border Officials: Anyone not in uniform asking for money? Ignore them.
💰 Currency Exchange Touts: The rates from border changers can be awful, check them on the day before you leave your hostel and then exchange just enough for a bus/snack. Wait until Liberia to hit an ATM.
🛂 “Fast Track” Offers: There’s no express lane; if someone offers to “help” you for a fee, it’s a scam.
🧾 Bogus Exit Receipts: Only pay the official $3 to the kiosk or officer. Ask for a receipt if unsure.
🎫 Essential Documents & Requirements
Passport - Valid for at least 6 months.
Proof of onward travel - Bus, shuttle or flight out of Costa Rica, I was not asked for this but its worth having something booked even if you cancel it like a cheap bus ticket.
Proof of accommodation - Especially if you look “unplanned”.
Proof of funds - Not always asked, but good to have.
PRINTED copies - Border officers sometimes refuse to accept digital versions. Trust me, it’s worth the effort always get a few new prints in major cities to stay topped up.
🚌 Transportation From Peñas Blancas to Liberia
Once you're through immigration, head past the chaos to the main road where buses to Liberia wait. They’re cheap, and usually one shows up every 30–45 minutes.
🚌 Bus: Peñas Blancas to Liberia⏱️ Around 1.5–2 hours 💵 $3–$5 USD 🕓 Operates regularly until late afternoon
Once in Liberia, you can transfer to Tamarindo, Monteverde, La Fortuna or San José. Liberia itself is a decent stopover, especially if you're arriving tired or late.
🏨 Where to Stay in Liberia
💰 Budget: Hospedaje Dodero Why Stay? Backpacker favourite, near the bus station.Vibe: Social, clean, relaxed.Facilities: Kitchen, Wi-Fi, hammocks.Perfect For: Early morning departures or chill overnight stays.
💎 Mid-Range: Hotel LiberiaWhy Stay? Charming colonial vibes.Vibe: Peaceful, slightly upscale.Facilities: Courtyard, café, AC.Perfect For: Travellers looking for comfort on a modest budget.
🔐 Safety Notes – How’s the Vibe?
This border crossing felt relatively safe, especially in daylight. Just be alert, don’t flash your valuables, and ignore pushy touts. The usual backpacker rules apply.
As for Nicaragua and Costa Rica generally -
Nicaragua: Friendly, affordable, but more basic infrastructure
Costa Rica: More organised, pricier, but very traveller-friendly
🧠 Final Thoughts on the Peñas Blancas Crossing
This is a crossing where a little preparation saves a lot of stress. Print your docs, hold onto small bills, and mentally prepare for a bit of chaos.
Most importantly, don’t forget to laugh at the madness, even if you’re slightly sunburnt, dehydrated, and wondering if your bus already left without you.
The highlight? The satisfaction of getting that Costa Rica stamp and knowing the beaches, volcanoes, and wildlife are just a few hours away.
📚 Further Reading for This Route
🌋 The Best Volcanoes to Hike in Nicaragua
🏄♂️ How to Get from Liberia to Tamarindo (Surf & Sun Guide)
✍️ Have you crossed Peñas Blancas recently? Jump into the Backpackers Blueprint Border Forum and drop your tips. Let’s help each other out ✌️
🚀 Safe travels & smooth crossings, friend!
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