Traveling South from Central America to South America you are going to hit a barrier, not in the metaphorical sense, but in the literal sense. One of the largest natural barriers in the world, the Darien Gap. A 100-mile stretch of swamps, rainforests, rivers, and mountains that is not passable for most. As you travel towards the Darien gap from Panama or Colombia you will begin to hear stories of drug and human trafficking, murder or simply explorations gone wrong. The stories are as tall as the gap is wide.
So what's a traveler to do?
You have two options, either fly from Panama to Colombia or take to the water and island hop via the San Blas Islands.
In this blog we are going to opt for the latter option having undertaken the journey ourselves, we will take to the water and explore a place where coconuts are still used as currency and paradise is your front door. We will look at the history of the Guna Yala and the San Blas Islands, whether you should take the speedboat tour or the Sailing boat tour. Before a full account of my time spent with San Blas Adventure with a final summary and overview.
By the end I hope to convince you that if you have the time and budget this is an unforgettable journey you should take.
Quick Aside ... I am going to cover the history of Panama in depth in an edition of the 'Where Next?' Podcast so I will begin with an brief history of the Guna Yala people and the San Blas Islands, all images are unedited and video footage is raw, lets get into this.
Chapters
Island Hopping, Speedboat Tour vs Sailing Boat Tour - Costs and Time
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 01 - The Start Of The Adventure
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 02 - Paradise Day
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 03 - Meeting the Guna Yala
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 04 - Welcome to Colombia
The Guna Yala People and the San Blas Islands
The Guna Yala are the indigenous people local to this Central America region now known as Panama. Their exact origin story and dates are unknown, but the tribe is known as a highly skilled maritime tribe. The Guna Yala resisted the spanish colonization retreating to the San Blas Islands. In doing so they managed to preserve their way of life and traditions.
In 1925 the Guna would come under renewed pressure from the Panamanian government, which wanted control over the territories.
The Guna Rebellion of 1925 was a pivotal moment in their history as a bloody battle ensued. The Guna would effectively win, leading to the recognition of the Guna’s autonomy in 1938.
Today they are seen as strong independent people who have rights in Panama in the same manner as any other Panamanian. A lot of traditional practices are still upheld, including clothing, home building and medicine, however individuals can be sent to the mainland for further education. It is truly a fascinating contrast of modern society and indigenous traditions that you have to see to understand, you are not going to get that from the plane ride ;-).
So now we know a little more about the Guna Yala, a quick word on the Islands. Located on the Northern coast in the Caribbean sea the The San Blas Islands consist of around 365 islands. Approximately 50 of them are inhabited. The islands are known for their pristine white sandy beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and vibrant coral reefs. Each island has its own unique charm and character and each is owned by a female member of the Guna Yala. You can take a day trip to the islands and many Panamanians visit them for vacations. If you imagine sipping on a freshly opened coconut on a beach under a palm tree looking out to the turquoise blue water, then you are in the right place.
Island Hopping, Speedboat Tour vs Sailing Boat Tour - Costs and Time
When it comes to making your decision of whether to sail or speed boat then the ultimate decision will come down to the following. Do you want more island time, or more boat time?
With the speed boat option you will have around 8 hours total on the boat, you will sleep on the islands and you will get to visit a Guna Yala Community. You will hug the coastline of Panama and largely be able to see land most of the time. You will stop in La Miel, mainland Panama to get stamped out of Panama before visiting your first stop in Colombia, the lesser visited beach of Sapzurro. After spending some time here you will end your trip in Capurganá. The speed boat option will set you back around $500 USD (2023), and you will need spending money that is split into Colombia Pesos and USD. This option is via San Blas Adventures
With the sailing you will have the first 3 days in and around the San Blas Islands before doing a 2 day open water crossing to get to Cartagena in Colombia. You will sleep on the boat and be shipped back and forth by dingy to the San Blas Islands. You will still get to meet the Guna Yala snorkle and explore in the same manner as the speedboat but you will be back to the boat each evening. The cost of the sailing option is around 660-780 USD per person (2023) depending on which boat you take. Blue Sailing are your company for this one.
Let me know which you choose, if you enjoyed the trip and comment with tips for fellow travelers below.
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure
My personal decision came down to wanting the additional island time so from this point onward I am going to give an insight to the trip, a day by day accound and finally my final thoughts on my time with San Blas Adventure. As you can probably guess from the introduction, I am a fan of the trip, but there is one large advantage to taking the sailing option over the speed boat that I feel I did not weigh up properly in my own decision. As a spoiler it's largely the finishing location but I will reveal my thoughts on this as we go through.
Pre Trip Briefing
Organised a day or two before the trip, this meeting is worth attending if you can! It was a great way to meet the guides and some of the people who you will be spending the next 5 days with. It will also give you a good insight into how the trip will be run and the general schedule. Once you have all had a chat you will be told to be ready by around 4am when a truck will pick you up from your hostel.
Story Time
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 01 - The Start Of The Adventure
Waking at around 4am I grabbed my bags and left the apartment room that I had been sharing with a good friend who I met in Costa Rica. We hugged, I grabbed my bags and went down to the lobby of the Blu Hostel in Panama. The silence of the hostel and the city seemed to stretch endlessly. With nothing but a clock for company and with my bags by my side, I waited. Shortly after 4:30, a big black truck pulled up outside. Stacked with gear on the back, this was either my ride or I was about to be abducted. A man jumped out and walked over to the lobby,
“Jack?”
I nodded and said hello, he grabbed one of my bags, I grabbed the other and jumped into the back of the truck. I was greeted by two other members of the trip, I was satisfied that was not an abduction. Saying hello to the other two members, the driver fired up the engine and we took off into the dead of night, with excitement and anticipation for the 5 night 4 day adventure that lay ahead.
We picked up a couple more explorers before heading to a supermarket where we met up with another two trucks. We were told to grab any last snacks and drinks. I grabbed a bottle of Rum feeling it would be appropriate for a nautical Caribbean adventure. Loading everyone back into the trucks we drove for around 2 hours, the journey going from silky smooth Panama city streets to mud tracks through the thick forest, before finally arriving at Puerto de Carti where the boat would be docked.
On arrival at Carti, we all jumped out of the trucks into what can only be described as a muddy field with some timber docks and a ropey looking restaurant. Taking in the surroundings, the members from other trucks began to walk over to us. Feeling like the start of some sort of game show we all stood around and did the usual “What is your name, where are you from?” There were around 16 of us, all from Europe.
Whilst we were standing around chatting the guides started loading up the boats. Shortly after we were handed life jackets, jumped on the boat, the captain fired up the engine, pulled back on the throttle and we slowly started moving away from the brown murky water of Carti dock.
It did not take the water long to go from brown to blue, the captain pulled further back on the throttle and we were away, full speed cutting through the gulf of Guna Yala heading to our first Island.
After around just 45 minutes, we pulled up to a tiny little island that looked something like this.
This Island called Emoji Island, would be the first spot for lunch, our first San Blas Island, our first opportunity to grab a snorkel mask and of course, a beer. After 45 minutes or so, we were called to lunch, cooked by the guides, a banquette of rice vegetables and fish served around a table made from fallen trees. This was the perfect platform to all sit together, share stories, explain why we wanted to take the trip and most importantly, share some laughs as a group. It was the start of the kind of camaraderie that only forms when people come together to explore planet earth.
We all finished eating, cleaned off our cutlery and plates, bought a beer for the road, (each Island has an owner who you can buy coconuts and beers from for USD so keep small notes on you), then we all jumped back into the boat to head to the next island where we would be spending the night.
As we approached the second island, the mood on the boat had changed, everyone clearly more relaxed and extremely excited for what the next few day would bring. The larger size of this island promised more exploration and discovery. The captain skillfully navigated the boat to the shore, and we stepped onto the soft sand, greeted by the welcoming sight of another pristine beach framed by swaying palms, and what would become a trip staple, a volleyball net. Have a peek at where we landed below.
After a good amount of time playing volleyball, day transitioned into night at which point dinner was served. Again a mixture of vegetables, rice and freshly caught lobster we all sat around a table and continued to build the camaraderie. For dessert, a glass of punch. A beach fire was lit and we all transitioned from the diner table to the beach front, sat beneath a clear sky with the warmth of the fire, on our salty skin, the trip was turning into something of a fairytale. We would trade further stories into the night before one by one slipping away to the hammocks that would rock us to sleep.
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 02 - Paradise Day
Waking up early to the sound of the wind blowing through the palms I visited the facilities, not a dream experience but not bad for an island in the middle of nowhere. The temperate was warm so surf shorts and vest remained the attire of choice.
As a quick aside, its worth having a jacket like a Rab or a wind/ waterproof jacket on you at all times, as the evenings can be slightly cold and so can the boat rides!
We had breakfast early and then jumped back onto the boat to head to the next island. This would be the longest boat journey of the trip of around 2 and half hours, allowing us to take a good chunk out of our Colombia voyage. Bouncing around in the boat, some people tried to sleep, some listened to music, talking was not really an option over the boat engine at full power, my personal choice, a podcast (always true crime!).
After a few hours on the ocean highway the next Island would come into view on the horizon. All ready to stretch our legs the boat dropped anchor and we jumped into the crystal blue water to wade to the next San Blas Island. We would spend a good amount of time here, have lunch, snorkel and even a bit of slack lining before heading to where we would spend the night.
Just over a 30 minute trip away, we would head across to a small edge of a community site which would be home for the evening. Here we had beds, but most importantly, here we had a volleyball net.
Everyone dropped their bags next to or on a bed before gathering back outside for a drinking game, called ‘gday bruce’ followed by the next installment of Volleyball began, which had also turned into something of a drinking game!
A more relaxed evening, the sun set and everyone dispersed to bed, truth be told, I am not sure anyone had had the best sleep in the hammocks the previous night so a bed and sheets were something to be excited about.
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 03 - Meeting the Guna Yala
This would be the most important day, why, because this would be the day we get to meet the Guna Yala and have a look at the community in which they live. This opportunity was also one of the major reasons I chose to undertake the Panama to Colombia trip with San Blas Adventures. But we had to be patient. The morning started with breakfast before again we would load up and head to the next island, another few hours of ocean highway. This island much like the others was the epitome of paradise, but also had a more mangrove feel with other islands visible nearby. The owner of this island had built a bar and welcomed us all with coconut cocktails. We were told that the snorkeling here is fantastic so having finished our drink a few of us grabbed a mask and took to the waters. Here we would see the most marine life and coral so far. The water depth was greater, dropping off fairly steeply from the island, meaning the usually warm waters had cooler refreshing patches. After a bit of exploration, the rest of the afternoon involved a spot of reading, a bit of sunbathing, a smaller amount of volleyball and a few card games. As the sun slowly moved across the sky and the afternoon advanced, a few members of the Guna Yala appeared on the island. They had arrived in several traditional canoes, our guide rounded us up and told us that the island we would be staying at is just a 5 minute paddle away and we would be getting there not by boat, but by canoe! We all had to pair up, jump in a canoe and get to the island of the Guna Yala community where we would be spending the night.
This was a lot of fun.We quickly found out that the canoes were not the easiest method of transport, especially when fighting a current and a bit chop from the more open sections of water. Nonetheless we all made it safely across to the Guna Yala community island.
Arriving at the Guna Yala community island we first dropped our bags into a dorm room. We would be staying in a property that is gated off from the local community. Even though the Guna Yala are welcoming you only get a quick glimpse and tour of the town (around an hour). This makes perfect sense as whilst tourism is a good income for the community, simply letting tourists loose into a different culture would not be appropriate. We were given a time to meet at the gate, so we could shower, or change before entering, and then, finally, the moment arrived.
The gate became a literal transition into a different world—a world where tradition, culture, and the natural beauty of the San Blas Islands converged. Stepping through the gateway we were greeted with excited children, smiling, laughing and keen to say hello. Beyond the children the island was covered with timber and thatched buildings either side of dense mud streets, Adults were dressed in vibrant clothing adorned with intricate molas. We were taken on a circular loop of the town before arriving in the central square where a traditional dance was performed by the men and women of the village. It was a true privilege to see and something that will stay with me forever. A world where western influences were being carefully implemented but in a way that does not impede tradition, a place that reminds you that there are so many ways we can live our lives. A place where family and community values are still the most important aspect of life. A place where people greet you with a smile and an open heart.
Then in the blink of an eye it was over and we were taken back through the gate.
Now, we would get to go back in the evening to eat at a local restaurant. This was also a pretty magical time, as our guide from San Blas gave a talk covering the history of the Guna Yala, their current challenges and the future challenges. After an interesting and well research talk he opened the floor to questions before finally inviting us to look at some of the locally made items that were for sale. Once the dinner was over we returned to our accommodation, had a drink and a chat before heading to bed.
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure Day 04 - Welcome to Colombia
Waking up on the fourth and final day came with a mixture of excitement to get to Colombia and disappointment that it would all soon be over. Grabbing a coffee I went to sit on the dock to reflect on the previous day and watch the sun rise across the water. After finishing the cup, breakfast was served before we all loaded up the boats and headed toward our final stop in Panama La Miel, where we would stamp out of Panama. La Miel is an unusual place, slightly gritty with a somewhat unloved, abandoned feel about it, in a cool way though! We only stopped here purely for a customs check. But it turned out to be a good opportunity for some cool photos.
Once we had all been stamped out of Panama, it was back to the boat for a quick ride over the border to Sapzurro in Colombia. A beautiful beach where Colombian holiday makers travel to to ‘get away’ from the tourist trail. Here we had a treat of ceviche and a tamale for lunch, before hopping into the boat for one last time as a group to get to Capurganá
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Arriving in Capaguna we booked into a hostel for the night and had an offer of a last group meal (not included) at a local restaurant, which we all took. We were able to thank our guides, and were given one last brief of where to stamp into Colombia and how to get to our next destination. Ironically you have to take a boat from Capurganá to get to what I am going to call ‘mainland’ Colombia. This would turn out to be a challenge in itself which I will cover in a separate blog as its quite a funny tale.
Island Hopping with San Blas Adventure - Final Summary
This trip was recommended to me by a friend and I have since and will continue to emphatically recommend it myself. Here is what San Blas Adventure did well, in my opinion.
Food: The meals provided throughout the trip were consistently excellent, showcasing local flavors and culinary expertise and all requirments are catured to.
Guides: The knowledgeable and friendly guides played a crucial role in ensuring a smooth and enjoyable experience, even in the face of unexpected challenges.
Boat Captain: The experienced local boat captain instilled a sense of safety and confidence, navigating the waters with expertise.
Guna Yala Visit: The unique opportunity to visit and interact with the Guna Yala community added a culturally enriching dimension to the journey.
Group bonding: The meals allowed us to sit and eat together which is the best way to build friendships and get to know each other.
Considerations
Destination Logistics: From Capaguna, you will need to travel to Necoli before heading to Cartagena or Medellin, this requires careful planning due to the remote location of Capaguna.
Final Hostel Arrangements: While the trip doesn't include the final hostel, considerations regarding accommodation in Capaguna should be taken into account, given the late arrival and potential limited availability.
Overall Impression:
Despite minor considerations, the trip left an indelible mark, offering a perfect blend of adventure, fun, cultural immersion, and natural beauty. The San Blas Islands, with their pristine beaches and the welcoming embrace of the Guna Yala community, provided an unparalleled experience. For those seeking an off-the-beaten-path journey through the Caribbean, the Panama to Colombia trip with San Blas Adventures comes highly recommended.
Until the next one travel safe friends and cheers.
If you have made it this far you may want to check out our Panama Guide page which you can find by clicking here
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