Iquitos is the largest city in the world with no access roads it is the land of 1000 tuc-tucs, ayahuasca and unexpected French architecture. It is perched on the north east of Peru with the only available access via boat or plane. So once you are in ... you are in!
In this blog, I want to have a look at the safety of Iquitos for backpackers, particularly solo travellers and give an insight to my time there.
I am going to go from our arrival into the dock after the over night boat ... Find our blog post on the boat journey from Leticia to Iquitos here and find part one of this two part blog post on my experience in Leticia and the Amazon excursion here for more insights. We are going to look at if Iquitos is a safe place for backpackers, spoiler, you need to have your guard up. If you want to get to the facts then scoot down to the section Is Iquitos Safe by clicking here. Lets go explorers.
Arriving into Iquitos
Arriving into Iquitos dock by boat around mid morning following one of the most spectacular boat journey ... there really is no light pollution in these areas, and it turns out a speed boat glides through the amazon like a warm knife through butter which makes it a great change to the usual overnight busses which role and bump ensuring sleep is almost impossible for a prolonged period ... My friend and I hopped onto the timber dock and immediately felt lost. Navigating our way up and across from timber homes on stilts we walked across suspended timber walkways until we spotted an opening which clearly was the exit into the main land of Iquitos.
We popped out onto a busy road which seemed to have more tuc tucs than the rest of the world combined! These were accompanied by that always familiar sound of high pitched horns ringing out across the city scape.
The streets felt gritty, unclean, polluted but also colourful with each tuc-tuc personalised through paint or decoration in an attempt to stand out from the one immediately next to it. It became hot, the heat surrounded us from all sides as it reflected off the building and hard ground. A total contrast to the vast green expanses, the serenity and the cool breeze from the river crossing.
Our destination would be the Flying Dog Hostel. Highly recommended on hostel work and trip adviser, it was not too much of a walk away. It was however a walk that felt a bit different. It became clear that the only two people with big backpacks on were myself and my friend. We were drawing the eye of the locals. This usually doesn't bother me but for some reason, I really felt it here!
Nonetheless the only option is to press on, so we did. I pulled out my phone, still signal! Unbelievable! Maps working like a dream my friend and I looked at the route and decided to walk it. Around 20 minutes away we started snaking our way down and through the streets of Iquitos.
Around half way through, someone clocked us, he walked up to us and asked us where we are from and where we are going. He suggested that we should go to the market. Slightly tired from not sleeping overly well on the boat, the English gentleman in me was saying be polite you are in this gentleman home city, whilst the tired irritable side of me was saying, get to the hostel dump your bags, find some food and have a nap.
The gentleman walked alongside us the rest of the way to the hostel, he did not want to take no for an answer seeming desperate to get us to the market straight way!
Even if I did venture to a market place it would not be with all my bags and it definitely would not be until I had spoken to the people on the counter at the Flying Dog Hostel. Finally arriving at the hostel we were buzzed in through a locked door ... sanctuary, we finally managed to part ways with our impromptu friend, politely of course. We checked in and got that much needed shower.
Now here is the thing, the guy walking with us said he was very well known in the area and knew the owners of the hostel really well, did I check this claim, yes I did, was it false, yes it was! Its one of those moments where I was pleased to stick to my guns and make sure my first port of call was the hostel. The moral of the story here, don't ever be pushed down a path you do not want to go down in a city you do not know.
Benefit of the doubt ... The guy could have just been being overly friendly and genuinely trying to help us have a good time, however I also found out that the market he was attempting to take us to was a hot spot for crime. If you have read my other blogs, you know I have a far bit of tech on me and this always gets locked up before I venture anywhere. All in all, it was not an enjoyable start to the city. I had heard mixed review on this place before arriving and was hoping the persistence of this guy was not going to be a reoccurring event. We did not stay long enough in Iquitos to find out.
On arrival to the hostel it became clear that most people were in Iquitos largely for one reason; ayahuasca!
People from all over the planet and from all sorts of vocations found themselves in a city in the middle of the jungle, only accessible by plane or boat. An experience doctor from North America, a guy from Chile who has recently discovered spirituality, some girls from europe, who were tackling issues from their past. The individuals each had their own story and each had their reason why ayahuasca was the medicine of choice.
It was an unusual environment to be in, and not one that I personally had any interest in. Speaking to the friend who I had undertaken the boat journey with, we realised it was time to leave the jungle for the calling of the big city, Lima. Using the hostel computer we booked flights giving us just one day to explore Iquitos. So lets ask the question we are here for.
Is Iquitos safe for backpackers?
I am not going to sugar coat this one, the latest advice from .gov (UK) in 2024 is do not travel within 20km of the Peru, Colombia, Brazil border (AKA Leticia which the previous blog was on ... oops!) unless travel is essential. This is due to criminal activity.
It advices against solo travel, and frankly, I was pleased to have undertaken the journey with a friend. Would I do it again solo now ... perhaps ... but I would constantly feel on high alert. Yet as I also mentioned in the previous blog the excursion into the Amazon with Gambo travel is perhaps one of the greatest adventures I have ever undertaken!
Iquitos itself? The thing with Iquitos is it feels extremely isolated! Perhaps due to only being accessible by boat of plane. It adds an extra dynamic that sticks in your subconscious that you are cut off. Petty crime is high in Iquitos, and police presence is ... well non existent!
Flying Dog Hostel recommended that we not walk around alone at night. So making friends with some of the previously mentioned eclectic group of individuals in the hostel; we decided to all go out for dinner in the evening together. Ironically, I ended up walking to the restaurant on my own after having issues trying to book my plane ticket on the hostel computer. Slightly trepidatious following warnings of staying with the group, I walked quickly but did not feel unsafe! Arriving at the restaurant we grabbed some food from a modern (and rather westernised) restaurant called 'La Casa De Las Enchiladas' before walking back home again with no issues at all! The streets are dark and at the time they felt fairly unpopulated, so if you turned the wrong corner I could see how you could quickly find yourself on the wrong side of a mugging but no more so than any other unknown city.
Ayahuasca
The other thing that greets you when you walk into hostels are warnings regarding ayahuasca. Perhaps me being a little naive, I did not even know what ayahuasca was until arriving into Iquitos! It turns out a lot of people travel to Iquitos specifically for a spiritual ceremony that involves drinking a hallucinogenic tea made from the bark and stem of the tropical tree 'liana Banisteriopsis caapi' or B.caapi. So what are the warnings, well unfortunately they are in relation to sexual assault. These ceremonies take place in the jungle, at night, with the effects making you entirely vulnerable, enough said!
Since leaving Peru, my naivety and curiosity has lead me to undertake research in what these ceremonies are for, and why people travel so far to take part in them.
In the UK ayahuasca is considered a Class A drug, however in Peru and around the Amazons, and as far north as Costa Rica, you are able to find retreats that are purely for undertaking the ceremony which takes place over several nights. The thing that varies greatly is cost. Costa Rica for example now offers 'luxury clinics' that can cost thousands for a few nights stay. Paradoxically you can find much cheaper solutions in places like ........ Iquitos.
I would never recommend participating in a ceremony, but if you are sure it is something you want to do, please please please do your homework. Look for reputable options.
More reputable clinics usually request you stay on a certain diet for up to a month before arriving and will guide you through the process from start to finish. Reputable clinics should also have specialist who you are able to help with questions, concerns and guidance.
Unlicensed or 'spur of the moment' ceremonies are not a good idea. If for what ever reason you do turn up somewhere and think its for you ... talk to your hostel.
Express Robbing
Generally this is your most vulnerable area as a solo traveller and exactly why you should not wander around alone at night. The express robbing is simply being marched to a cash machine under threat of violence and being asked to withdraw money. Ironically I heard more stories of this happening in Mexico than Peru, but it is still something to be mindful of!
Safety tips for backpackers in Iquitos
Given the above lets look at some safety tips, that are good practise no matter where you go.
Taxi tips
Ask your hostel/club/ restaurant, wherever you may be to order you a taxi/ tuc-tuc. As a pedestrian you are very vulnerable, especially when carrying your luggage. The same goes for the end of a night out. Hostels and even you club/ pub will have connections to safe taxi firms.
If Uber is available where you are, use it and its safety features.
Contact your location, drop a message to hostel to let them know when you will arrive.
Never hand your phone across, write the address of where you are going on a piece of paper and pass it to a driver. I started doing this in China as I simply could not pronounce the name of where I needed to go and it has not let me down since. As a paradox a friend had her phone stolen like this as she passed it to the taxi driver, driving slowly he passed it out the window to someone on a moped and thats that.
Don't pay in advance but DO ask for the cost or an idea of the cost even if on a meter.
Street tips
Do a free walking tour as one of your first activities. Not only are these great for understanding an area, your guide will give you the do's and do nots in a city. You can ask if the area is safe or if there are places to avoid etc. You may even meet some new friends who you can hang out with.
Following on from making friends, safety in numbers. If you find yourself walking home alone at night for whatever reason, walk in close proximity of a group you are pretty sure are a good people, just making yourself look like part of the group adds a layer of protection.
Do not stand in the middle of the street with a map looking lost.
Public places and restaurants are your friend. If you feel vulnerable for any reason, go into the nearest cafe/ restaurant/ museum etc you will be better having people and staff members around you. You can even ask them for help or a taxi or direction.
If you have not got it on you, it cannot be take. I am yet to meet a backpacker male or female who walks into a dorm draped in jewellery, but if this is you check the robbery stats in the area before exploring for the day.
Hostel tips
If the usuals are not available (reviews from Hostel work or booking.com) then your fellow backpacker is your asset here, ask where they stayed if it was good and if they would recommend it.
Lock up your valuables. You will be hard pressed to find a hostel without a locker, it has happened to me but I carry a motor bike helmet lock that allows me to lock everything together
Let them know when you will arrive.
Ask your hostel about excursions and finding local guides
Often there is a hostel that is known for something in the area. For example, Bigfoot Hostel in Leon Nicaragua is known for volcano boarding. It has a good reputation for it and therefore you can assume the hostel also has good hook ups with local people, taxis, guides, excursions ... and ... it does! Find the hostel that is well known in the area.
So is Iquitos more dangerous that other areas?
In this backpackers opinion, during the day, you will be fine, at night ... keep up your guard, but overall, if you stick to the usual safety checks, you will be fine.
The bright side
Ok, so this doesn't sound like to much of a gloomy message ... The other thing that Iquitos does do, is act as a spring board for excursions into the jungle much like the one I undertook from Letica. There are some great companies offering great experiences and once you are in and amongst this sort of offering you will be very safe. One of the best resources to check beyond your hostel is Perus tourism information centre IPeru, of which there are over 40 locations of up and down Peru, click here to go the the website. If you are in Iquitos drop them a message or a whats app to find some experiences and trusted excursions.
Enjoy Iquitos and look after your fellow backpacker, don't forget to check out our backpacking Colombia travel page if you are going north or our backpacking Peru travel page if you are going south until the next one here is a video from the road during our escape from Iquitos.
For the Curious Explorer