Nov 310 min read

Ely Cathedral: An Architect’s Guide to this wonderful piece of architecture

Driving from Suffolk to Lincolnshire one morning I spotted Ely Cathedral in the backdrop of the city scape. It is a cathedral I know of, and one I have never visited and to that ends on a not so special Wednesday morning, I ignored the sat nav and instead targeted the car towards the medieval structure. Ely, itself is a small city, heading towards the centre and with a rough idea of where the cathedral was, I found myself in a carpark that was free! A great start, perhaps a gimmick to get people to go to the city centre but it was a pleasant surprise in a world where little is free and it was a much appreciated and welcome gift!

The carpark was set below the cathedral which was perched up on the edge and on to of a hillside, slightly camouflaged by surrounding trees, which in itself is a unique setting for a cathedral, so often they are set in a city surrounded and obscured by further buildings. Being able to see it from this distance adds to its presence, reminding me of perhaps the most iconic example of a cathedral being set on top of a hill, Lincoln! But Lincoln is for a different blog post.

The pathway popped me out onto the Ely street frontage, I new the cathedral was on my left so I turned left in the hope of finding an entrance. I did, and after walking through an arch Ely cathedrals Northern Elevation was in front of me. Bells chiming I could let the scale of this building begin to sink into my mind.

Ely Cathedral Location Map

Ely Cathedral and Its Architecture

Construction began in 1083, with the earliest sections featuring Norman-style architecture; strong, weighty structures that set a firm foundation. This original structure was completed by 1189 however the construction of the cathedral would span centuries. As you walk through the Galilee porch you are walking through one of the later additions and by later I mean 1212-1215 so still a very historic part of the structure. As you approach the vast wooden door you within the galilee, you are are about to enter the main nave. In less than 60 years, this part of Ely Cathedral will be celebrating its its 1000th birthday! What this building has seen we can only imagine. Pilgrims of all walks of life passing through this entrance door and nave. The nave is tall, not the tallest I have seen but impressive and made up of round arches build by the Normans. The arches straddle columns in clusters of 5 set out in triangle formation almost like the pins in a ten pin bowling lane. The arches are 3 tall and elegant. I have always enjoyed the semicircular nature of an arch over the pointed gothic counterparts. yet look down this main nave and you will find a singular archway that its of the same height of all 3 bays. This arch is of gothic style sitting in contract to the smooth arches that ripple down the nave. This gothic arch seems to do two things

1 - It seems to guide your eye to the ceiling where you are able to find the victorian reliefs painted by Henry Le Strange and Thomas Gambier Parry. These tells biblical stories. Vibrant in colour these add warmth to the cathedral.

2 - The arch hints of something more spectacular and even greater in height beyond.

As you walk down and through the nave your perspective begins to shift and your head tilts further upward with every step. Why? Because beyond the arch is perhaps on of the most beautiful intersectional roof formations on planet earth and at its very centre point is the Octagon Tower.

The Octagon Tower Of Ely Cathedral

This is possibly one of the most unique cathedral towers certainly in England, if not across planet earth, drop a comment below to throw a better one into the ring. The octagon tower is an engineering marvel created after the original central tower collapsed in 1322. The eight-sided lantern tower was designed to be both functional (building of the existing foundation) and beautiful. The 8 sided crossing is illuminated and bathed in light of all colours due to the intricate stained glass windows on the diagonal compass points of the tower.

Below the stained glass elements you will see carvings extruded from the wall, these look to be apostles or the likes looking down. Above them fluted arches that are very much of a gothic style. Another level of depth that simply does not exist in modern construction.

Long vertical columns provide support before the ribs of the roofing structure begin to take over. The centre most point is vivid with colour the ribs finished in gold, the inlays are green with floral patterns. It almost looks like a flower in full bloom or an 8 pointed star! The light from the (what I want to call 'cupola') is mesmerising. Even here small stain glass windows are finished to a level of detail that is unforgiving, gothic arch in form and finished with rose windows. Below these further reliefs of angles lit up in the blue and red hues of the satin glass windows.

The whole structure was devised by the architect Alan de Walshingham and is remarkably made up of timber glass and lead, the cross sectional width of the structure being to wide for a conventional stone arch.

When you look up at this structure, do no forget to look down, the floor and its tile inlay is also an octagon set inside the wider octagon.

The North and South Transepts

Off to the North and South are the transepts which form the horizontal element of the cruciform plan. The ceilings are hammer and beam with angels looking down at you. Again the green, gold and red colouring from the nave ceilings and octagon ceiling carry to these timber elements as well. The arches here are back to the Norman style and they are truly beautiful. The main arches in the transepts are split with smaller arches set back. In the southern Transept you are able to find deep historical elements, including the floor but also the floor. If you look up to first floor level you are also able to see the timber roof elements.

Before heading through the cross section to the main choir, take a quite moment to appreciate the vicars lectern, its details and beautiful and one of the sculptural elements you can get extremely close to! The metal railings and stone sit together to form a podium worth of the gods.

*Tip - If you do the stain glass museum tour (an extra £6) you will be able to see this roof in much greater detail, you will also get a fantastic perspective of the nave from the upper level. Not only this, you will also have all the stunning stain glass to explore including how it is made, some historical pieces and even some incredible modern pieces.

The Choir

Heading forward now from the cruciform intersection you will walk into the mai choir. From the beautiful stone and metal sculptural elements, here we are able to find rows of meticulously carved wooden stalls. These stalls were built for the monks, their melodies would have resonated through Ely many years ago.

Above, the high-vaulted ceiling and the interplay of shadows give the choir an almost reverent ambiance, guiding your gaze naturally towards the high altar.

The choir is also marked by the exquisitely designed pulpit and bishop’s throne, every inch of these elements feels imbued with meaning, whether in the swirling motifs or in the symbolic creatures depicted. Again here you will find a change to the flooring, tightly laid to triangular and square formations add a new layer of richness. This area although part of the main cruciform feels private, shut off and almost secluded. The change in materials and that added layer of colour makes this area feel loftier in the hierarchy of spaces.

The Presbytery

Beyond the Choir you find the Presbytery. The presbytery’s stonework is some of the finest in the cathedral, with richly ornamented columns and niches filled with statues. The rippling arches seen in the nave return but not in the Norman semi-circular style, here you will find a gothic pointed arches, these lead up to arched windows before a ribbed ceiling takes over in the style that matches the octagon's ribbed ceiling. This area is where the clergy would gather and is also home to some of the Cathedral’s most significant relics and remains, including those of Saint Etheldreda herself, the cathedral’s founder and an Anglo-Saxon princess turned abbess. Again a change in floor helps define a spacial change with an alter beyond the focal point on the backdrop of stone and stain glass. The stain glass beyond is that of St Etheldreda's Chapel where we will head next.

St. Etheldreda’s Chapel

Named for the saint who founded Ely as a religious community in the 7th century, St. Etheldreda’s Chapel is an intimate space imbued with an aura of serenity and sanctity. The chapel’s architecture is a beautiful nod to Ely’s long spiritual heritage, and the simplicity of the design contrasts with the more elaborate sections of the cathedral, drawing focus to the spiritual reverence of the place.

If you pause for a moment here, you might feel a sense of connection to the countless pilgrims who have come to honor St. Etheldreda over the centuries. The light filtering through the stained glass gives the space a gentle glow, illuminating the carved stone effigies with a quiet, almost ethereal beauty.

Bishop West’s Chapel

To the southern side of Etheldreda's Chapel is Bishop West’s Chapel. This is a true gem tucked within the cathedral, is an extraordinary display of late medieval craftsmanship. Built in the early 16th century, this chapel feels slightly different from the rest of the cathedral due to its Tudor-era details. Bishop West’s influence is clear in the stunning fan vaulting overhead, a delicate, lace-like design.

Look closer, and you’ll see the heraldic badges and symbols of Bishop West himself integrated into the stonework, lending a personal touch to the chapel. The details here are endlessly fascinating, from the finely carved stone screens to the miniature faces peeking out from the walls, almost as though they’re keeping a silent vigil over the space.

Bishop Alcock’s Chapel

Built by Bishop John Alcock in the late 15th century, this chapel has an exceptional level of sculptural detail from stained glass holding the image of a cockerel as a nod to the bishop whom funded the chapel, to sculptured stone to inlaid floors and stained glass. As a final jewel if, you look the the cathedral ceiling you will see almost a pendant style stone sculpture that hangs above the space. It is a chapel that oozes opulence and wealth.

The chapel is a masterpiece of delicate detail and today is also used as a point to reflect on those who have human rights issues.

The Lady Chapel

The Lady Chapel is arguably one of the most beautiful and light-filled spaces in Ely Cathedral. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, this separate chapel is known for its grand scale and the breathtaking intricacy of its stone carvings. The walls are lined with graceful arches filled with delicate tracery and foliage carvings that seem to dance around the windows. In this space, the light takes on a special quality, filtering through tall, expansive windows and casting a soft glow across the cool stone.

One of the standout features of the Lady Chapel is the sense of space, it’s much wider than you might expect for a chapel, giving it an almost cathedral-like feel. The statues that once filled the niches were removed or damaged during the Reformation, but you can still see traces of their former grandeur in the delicate details left behind. It’s easy to lose track of time here, just taking in the overwhelming beauty and serenity that this part of the cathedral exudes.

If you would like to see more of this stunning cathedral then make sure to also check out my video on YouTube or below, and make sure to let me know your thoughts and memories, and favourite details in this magnificent building in the comments below.

Why Should You Visit Ely Cathedral?

Ely Cathedral is a blend of affordability, beauty, and history that’s hard to resist. Here’s why it deserves a spot on your travel itinerary if you are visiting the UK or are just nearby.

Affordability: Compared to the hefty entrance fees of many major attractions, Ely Cathedral is just £14 for entry and that lasts the WHOLE DAY! So you can explore part of the cathedral, have lunch and then go back later in the day for further exploration!

Accessible Location: Only about an hour by train from London or Cambridge, Ely is a quick and easy day trip for backpackers traveling through the south of England. It’s a small town, meaning everything is within walking distance from the train station, making Ely a stress-free and convenient stop, you can also as I said at the start, drive and park for free!

Unforgettable Views: Climbing the Octagon Tower gives you sweeping views of the cathedral and the surrounding fenland. If you love a good view and a sense of perspective, you won’t regret it. On a clear day, you can see for miles across the flat landscape, making it easy to imagine the lives of those who built and worshipped in this place hundreds of years ago.

Photographer’s Dream: The cathedral’s architecture, set against the surrounding town and countryside, is an endless canvas for photographers. Bring your camera or phone, whether it’s the intricate carvings in the Lady Chapel, the golden light filtering through the Octagon Tower, or the symmetry of the west front, Ely offers some of the best shots you’ll find on a backpacker’s budget.

Tips for Visiting Ely Cathedral as a Backpacker

Start Early: Ely gets a bit busier in the afternoon, so arriving early gives you some quiet moments to really appreciate the building’s beauty. The morning light also does wonders for the stained glass and interior details, especially in the nave.

Pack a Lunch: There are some lovely green spaces around the cathedral grounds, with a day ticket you can go and sit in the ground, have some food and then head back into the architectural joy.

Explore Ely Town: The town itself is worth a wander, with its quaint shops, traditional pubs, and peaceful riverside paths. It’s a small place, which means you can cover a lot in a day without feeling rushed.

Final Thoughts: Why Ely Cathedral is Worth Every Step

Ely Cathedral might not have the name recognition of Westminster Abbey or St. Paul’s, but that’s part of the charm. It’s a hidden gem that is lesser travelled and I am all about discovering the buildings of the world that do not get the recognition they deserve! Brimming with history, beauty, and architectural ingenuity, Ely is the very definition of underrated. For a backpacking architect, or anyone who finds joy in history and craftsmanship, it’s a slice of medieval magic that’s easy to access and hard to forget.

So next time you’re plotting your UK itinerary, set aside a day for Ely. It’s a trip that’ll leave you inspired, humbled, and perhaps more in love with the quiet, unassuming wonders of the British countryside. And hey, maybe I’ll see you there, craning my neck at the Octagon Tower!

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