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Writer's pictureJack Thompson

Cusco A Self Guided Walking Tour: A backpackers insights for architecture fanatics


If you have checked out our previous post on Cusco plaza then you will be well versed in the architectural style found here in Cusco, well today we are going to step further afield taking a look at more places to visits and explore in a self guided walking tour that will take you through some of the key sites that you should check out whilst in Cusco. This city is small enough to explore on foot pretty darn quickly, the one thing that will slow you down are the effects of altitude. If you want tips on how best to tackle the altitude then you can find them in my post 'Is it hard to breath in Cusco?'.


Cusco Altitude

That said, we can take this one slow and there are plenty of places for you to stop and grab a tea or coffee, make sure you have water with you though as hydration is key if you do start to feel some effects of altitude.


Right lets explore the colonial and Inca architecture of this fantastic city. Our starting point is going to be the Qorikancha or the temple of the Sun.


 

Cusco A Self Guided Walking Tour - The Route


 

Distance - 7km (4.3 miles)

Time - 2 hours non stop - All day with stops

Ability - Intermediate - Do not take the altitude for granted





 


A. Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun)

Qorikancha, Temple of the Sun Cusco Peru

Originally built as an Inca temple dedicated to Inti, the Sun God, Qorikancha is renowned for its precise stone masonry. The Incas were masterful stoneworkers, fitting large stones together seamlessly without mortar. The Spanish later converted it into the Convent of Santo Domingo in the 17th century, adding colonial structures atop the Inca foundation. The juxtaposition of Spanish baroque elements, arched doorways, vaulted ceilings, with the Inca stonework is a striking example of cultural fusion. Within the complex, you’ll find a museum displaying Inca artefacts that further illustrate the temple's historical significance.


 


B. Mercado Central de San Pedro

Mercado Central De San Pedro Cusco Peru

Constructed in 1925 with a roof designed by Gustave Eiffel, Mercado Central de San Pedro is an architectural and cultural hub. Its metal-framed roof offers ample space and light, prioritising functionality to accommodate the bustling market underneath. Inside, you’ll find rows of colourful produce, spices, meats, and local treats. The market’s open layout and practical design allow for easy browsing, so take time to wander through the aisles and sample fresh fruit juices or traditional street foods, like tamales and empanadas. This is also a great spot to pick up some souvenirs for the family (or yourself). Its where I picked up a hat for my father which he uses in the winter months for dog walks! If you are a bit light on warm clothing it is also a great place to add something more exotic to your backpack! Spend some time here milling around and taking in a bit of local Cusco.


If you are heading to Machu Picchu via Perurail, then you will also find the train station located opposite the market (just one to take a mental snapshot of for your early morning start)



 


C. Arco de Santa Clara


Built in the early 19th century, Arco de Santa Clara is a beautiful stone archway in colonial style. It features decorative niches and a striking relief of Saint Clara, the patroness of the city. As you pass under the arch, take a moment to appreciate its historical importance as one of the gates marking the old city limits. The arch’s enduring construction and ornamental details capture the essence of colonial Spanish architecture in Cusco. If you have come from the market then imagine yourself walking back into the old city.


C.2 Plaza San Francisco

Plaza Dan Francisco architecture Cusco Peru

Plaza San Francisco, a popular gathering place since colonial times, boasts a blend of architectural styles. The San Francisco Church, dating back to the mid-17th century, features a baroque facade with intricate stonework and an impressive wooden doorway. As you explore the square, notice the harmonious mix of baroque and colonial influences, particularly in the church’s details and the surrounding colonial buildings with their characteristic wooden balconies. If you hit this on the right day, you will also find additional markets selling various goods like jewellery or clothing.


C.3. Basilica Menor de la Merced

Basilica Menor De La Merced

This baroque church, constructed in the late 16th century, is famed for its lavish facade adorned with carved columns, niches, and statues. Inside, the church features a gilded altar and beautiful colonial paintings. Its cloisters, adorned with Spanish tiles and baroque arches, are serene and invite quiet contemplation. Take a stroll around the inner courtyard to fully appreciate the craftsmanship and artistry on display.


*Coffee Spot: Try a local coffee at one of the small stands inside the market, or as you are walking from plaza San Francisco to Basilica Menor de la Merced, you will find Café Dwasi Coffee (just off the square in front the Basilica), its a good time to grab one as you are about to start going up hill!




 


D. Plaza Regocijo

Plaza Regocijo Walking Tour Cusco Peru

This tranquil square is surrounded by historic colonial buildings with stuccoed facades and traditional wooden balconies. Originally a central marketplace, it now serves as a relaxed spot for visitors and locals alike. The colonial charm is evident in the symmetrical layout and period buildings. It's a wonderful spot to pause and admire the timeless architecture and it is far less busy then the plaza mayor just two street over, it almost feels hidden away! Ok this Cusco walking tour is about to get tough because we are going up hill to our next destination.



 


E. Mirador de San Cristobal


The Church of San Cristobal, built in the 17th century, offers simple colonial architecture with wooden balconies and stone walls. The views from this vantage point are spectacular, with panoramic sights of Cusco and its surrounding mountains, if you do not do anything else then head up here to get the views across Cusco Plaza. You will also find a chilled and relaxed atmosphere up here. The garden square in front of the church seems to be a hang out for locals. Climbing the bell tower provides a stunning perspective on the city’s layout, surrounded by lush hills, its a must do for sure.



 


F. Saqsaywaman


Entry: 130 Soles / 35 US Dollars

Website: Saqsauwaman


Saqsaywaman, constructed in the mid-15th century by the Incas, is a monumental fortress famous for its massive stone walls. The interlocking stones, some weighing over 100 tons, are fitted with such precision that a piece of paper cannot slide between them. The construction is a testament to Inca engineering prowess, achieved without mortar. Strolling along these walls, you’ll also have magnificent views over Cusco, making it a must-visit site.



F.1 Pukamuqu

Pukamuqu Walking Tour Cusco Peru

From Saqsauwaman we are going to head across the outskirts of the city, the first port of call here is the ancient Inca site of Pukamuqu. This park features terraced hillsides that reflect traditional agricultural practices. Although the architecture here is not as imposing as in other locations, the stone terraces offer a beautiful glimpse into Inca ingenuity in harmonising with the natural landscape. Walking here provides stunning views of the valley below and a peaceful environment to reflect on the Inca’s relationship with their surroundings.


*Coffee Spot: Heading down from the park and on the way to Plaza San Blas if you are in need for a drink then as you start to head back into the city from its outskirts you will find L'atelier Café Concept, this cafe combines excellent coffee with a cozy, artistic setting perfect for relaxing.



 


G. Plaza San Blas


Ok, after coffee (or not) we are heading across to the bohemian neighbourhood of San Blas, with its narrow cobblestone streets, is full of colonial adobe houses. The highlight is the San Blas Church, built in the 16th century, with its famous intricately carved wooden pulpit. The pulpit, considered a masterpiece of colonial art, features vivid carvings that depict biblical scenes. Wander through the artisan shops and galleries for unique handmade crafts and art.


Here I am proposing to take the 'long way round' to the next site (the archbishop's Palace Museum, this is by choice, but you can take the more direct route straight down from the plaza. If you take the scenic route you will find some beautiful houses and cute streets that are a feast for the eyes.


*Dinner tips: Around the plaza you will find Soqa, Green Point Vegan Restaurant and Chakruna Native Burgers I can recommend all 3 from experience.



 


H. The Archbishop’s Palace Museum (blue on main map)

The Archbishops Palace Museum Cusco Peru

The Archbishop’s Palace, located on the northeastern side of the plaza, houses the Museum of Religious Art. This building was constructed over the Palace of Inca Roca, showcasing the layers of Cusco’s history in a single structure. Today, it is a quiet retreat from the busy plaza, offering a glimpse into both Incan and colonial craftsmanship.


The palace, like many other colonial structures in Cusco, was built using Inca foundations. Its transformation into a religious and administrative space was overseen by colonial architects in the early 17th century. Indigenous labor, under the harsh Spanish mita system, played a major role in its construction.


The facade of the palace features one of the most famous examples of Incan stonework, the 12-Angle Stone. This iconic stone fits perfectly into the surrounding masonry, demonstrating the advanced engineering skills of the Inca civilisation. The palace’s colonial additions are more understated, with simple stone carvings and baroque detailing around the doors and windows.


Inside, the museum offers a fascinating collection of Cusqueña religious art, showcasing how indigenous artists adapted European religious themes to include Andean cultural elements.


Be sure to stop by the 12-Angle Stone on Hatun Rumiyoc Street, adjacent to the plaza. This remarkable example of Incan craftsmanship is a must-see for anyone exploring the historical layers of Cusco.


*Bar Tip: There are 2 yes 2 Irish bars on the same road between the museum and Portal Belen Mollys and Paddys both are a good take on a local Irish pub I can say this from experience. Try them both for an evening drink and let me know which you prefer!



 


I. Portal Belen


Portal Belen is a scenic alleyway where you’ll find colourful colonial balconies and arched doorways that transport you back in time. The alley’s cobblestone path and traditional architecture reflect Cusco’s blend of Inca and colonial influences. It’s a perfect place for a leisurely stroll and some beautiful photos.



 


J. Plaza Mayor (Main Square)


At the heart of Cusco, the Plaza Mayor is framed by two magnificent churches: the Cusco Cathedral and the Church of the Society of Jesus, both fine examples of Spanish colonial baroque architecture. Constructed in the mid-16th century, these buildings boast ornate facades, intricate stone carvings, and rich interior decorations. It’s a vibrant spot to end the tour, with a range of restaurants offering panoramic views of the square.


Dinner Spot: If you have walked that whole route then your probably need a good feed so why not check out Cicciolina, which serves a fusion of Peruvian and Mediterranean cuisine, a healthy way to end the day and replenish after a full day of exploring.



I have not gone into much detail on the plaza here, however if you want some pretty hefty insights to the architecture of Cusco plaza then please check out my blog post on the Plaza Mayor, perhaps the most beautiful plaza on the planet?!


The Architecture of Cusco Plaza Mayor

 

Still feeling fresh? Need more Culture?


 

If you have managed to get around this walking tour in double time, then here are a couple more options to check out nearby the plaza!


Museo Inka (blue on main map)


Website: Museo Inka


For those looking to dive deeper into the pre-Colombian history of Peru, the Museo Inka offers an extensive collection of Incan artefacts, including ceramics, textiles, and mummies. It’s located just a short walk from the Plaza de Armas and is housed in a stunning colonial building that itself rests on Incan foundations.


Casa Garcilaso (blue on map)


At the corner of the Plaza de Armas stands the Casa del Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, the home of one of Peru’s most important historical figures. Garcilaso de la Vega, a writer of mixed Incan and Spanish descent, was instrumental in preserving and documenting Inca history through his writings. His house has been preserved as a cultural centre and museum.


The house was built over the original structure of an Incan palace. After Garcilaso’s death in 1616, the building was maintained and eventually transformed into a museum. It now serves as a key site for those interested in the mestizo culture that developed during the colonial period.


The Casa del Inca Garcilaso is a fairly simple, rectangular colonial mansion. Its white-washed facade and wooden balconies offer a more subdued appearance compared to the grandiose churches of the plaza, but inside, it holds a wealth of historical artefacts.


The museum inside showcases Garcilaso’s life and works, including manuscripts and artwork that reflect the blending of Inca and Spanish cultures. His writings were crucial in preserving Incan history and providing an indigenous perspective on the Spanish conquest.


Garcilaso’s works, especially his book "Comentarios Reales de los Incas," are some of the most important chronicles of Incan history and the early colonial period. Visiting his home provides insight into the complex cultural identities that emerged in post-conquest Cusco.



 

Let us know your thoughts and share with fellow explorers


 

I really hope you have enjoyed this Cusco walking tour.


Do you plan to visit Cusco? Share your experiences in the comments below! I would love to hear your favourite spots and any tips you have for other travellers. And don’t forget to subscribe to the blog for more in-depth posts about Cusco’s hidden gems, and of course, the breathtaking journey to Machu Picchu.


Until the next one backpackers take care and travel safely.



For the curious explorer

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