The Pasos Canoas Border, Costa Rica to Panama, need to knows for backpackers and explorers by a backpacker who got caught out!
The Pasos Canoas border crossing between Costa Rica and Panama is one of the busiest and most chaotic land borders in Central America. Unlike some of the more structured crossings, this one can be a real test of patience; long lines, confusing paperwork, and last-minute document checks are all part of the experience. If you’re traveling overland, especially as a backpacker, you’ll want to be fully prepared to avoid unnecessary stress, delays, and unexpected costs.
Here’s everything you need to know to cross smoothly, plus some personal insights from my journey traveling from San José, Costa Rica, to David, Panama.
-- The Journey: San José to David via Pasos Canoas --
The overnight bus from San José leaves at an ungodly hour and a new friend I met at the Selina (now Socialtel) in San Jose late at night, boarding a long-haul bus bound for David, Panama. These buses tend to be cheap but comfortable enough, with multiple stops for the bathroom and a breakfast stop before you get to the Panama border. By the time we reached the border in the early morning hours, I was half-asleep, unprepared, and unaware of the chaos I was about to walk into.
Stamping out of Costa Rica, as you can imagine was a breeze, super nice lady "did you enjoy your time in Costa Rica"? Absolutely I stated and thanked her for having a country that made me feel so welcome.
Jumping back on the bus we rolled forward perhaps around 400 meters to the immigration office of Panama, this is where the s**t hit the fan.
As soon as the bus stopped, the driver rushed us off, telling us we needed to sort our exit and entry procedures quickly; my (dutch) friend and I came face to face with the immigration officers (side by side) up neither of us with proof of onward travel, at which point we received a fairly stern, "no onward travel no entry to Panama". My Dutch friend was far better at Spanish than me and began to negotiate, but the border guards simply had none of it and we were left in a position of needing to do something fast.
We stepped back from the counter to let our fellow bus riders go through their document checks. remarkably my phone had signal but it was 3G and slow as slow can be. I knew I would be booking onto a crossing to Colombia via the San Blas Islands and had been eyeing up a company to do it with for a few weeks in Nicaragua. I opened up there website and booked onto a trip selecting a date for around 3 weeks time. I attempted to pay. Filling out my details one at a time seemed to take and age before finally I hit confirm and payed for a ticket. The buffer wheel slowly turned and I got a confirmation message of the booking. Naturally this would not be enough I was told I would need an email. I started to pray and passed my phone over to my dutch friend to use. Her tactic an onward flight out of Panama, the ticket would be sent to her by a friend.
To add to this the bus driver stated to my dutch friend and I that if we did not get approved quickly he would leave us being. Thanks mate! As much as this was not appreciated, I do get 2 travellers cannot hold up the entire bus.
When I look back not in retrospect the worst outcome would have been we had to stay on the border sort out our situation and then jump on a shuttle on the other side of the border. But tired and under pressure that clarity of thinking was simply not with me!
Fortunately my confirmation email came through as did my Dutch friends ticket. We were stamped into Panama and joined the rest of the bus passengers who were now going through baggage checks. The immigration officers here literally opened every bag, took things out to look through and then left the passengers to reassemble their things! Fun!
Nothing to hide this part was simple. We had made it zipping our bags back up we passed through the exit door and threw our bags back onto the bus 🎉.
Its a funny travel story now but as I say it was super stressful at the time and the worst part is, it could have been simply avoided with the proof of onward travel. If you want to see me with a bit of a cold having a moan about the whole situation then have a look at the border forum (and please add to it if you have done this crossing recently).
So here is what you need to know to get smoothly across the Pasos Canoas border.
💸 Border Fees & Costs
🚨 Common Border Scams & How to Avoid Them
🎫 Essential Documents & Requirements
-- Transportation from Pasos Canoas to David --
Once past the border, the next step is getting to David or Panama City.
🚌 David to Bocas Del Toro
Bus to David: We booked onto a Tica Bus which runs from San José to David and beyond. The ride from the border to David took about an hour. Why did I stop in David? Because I wanted to get to Bocas Del Toro (a backpackers paradise) you can read about how to do this in my blog 'Getting from David to Bocas Del Toro' its another journey that is easy enough but there are some things you need to prepare for so have a read, the reward is great!
🚎 David to Panama City
🔫 Talk to me about Safety Jack
-- Where to Stay in San Jose &/ or David --
🌆 Where to Stay in San Jose
Although San Jose is a bit of a gritty city, it actually has some super nice hostels that are clean and very comfortable! Stray cat has built a great reputation and is a fantastic option for quick overnight stays whilst Capital Hostel de Ciudad offers a very modern and comfortable stay which is ideal for those looking to spend a few days and maybe take on some tours or activities in the Capital.
💰 Budget: Stray Cat Hostel
Why Stay? One of the most affordable hostels in San José, great for short stopovers before heading to your Costa Rica Paradise
Vibe: Laid-back, social atmosphere.
Facilities: Free breakfast (yay), luggage storage, communal kitchen.
Perfect For: Backpackers catching early buses.
💎 Mid-Range: Capital Hostel de Ciudad
Why Stay? Stylish, modern, and one of the highest-rated hostels in the city.
Vibe: Quiet, comfortable, digital nomad-friendly.
Facilities: Private rooms, coworking space, strong WiFi.
Perfect For: Remote workers & travelers who prefer a peaceful and more conferable stay.
🏢 Where to Stay in David
-- Final Thoughts on this Crossing from Costa Rica to Panama --
This was not the smoothest journey, and it could have been avoided if I had prepared better. The biggest takeaway? Have all your documents printed and ready, and don’t rely on border WiFi!
📚 Further Reading on Panama and Costa Rica
If you’ve crossed this border recently, share your experience on the Backpackers Blueprint Border Forum! Every bit of up-to-date information helps fellow travellers navigate these tricky crossings safely. 💪
🚀 Safe travels, and may your border crossings be smooth!
For the intelligent explorer
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