Cocora Valley, a beautiful way to spend a day in Colombias countryside
Let me tell you a story about my day at Cocora Valley national park, so you know how to explore this stunning part of Colombia.
My day in Cocora Valley, Colombia began in the best possible way, to the rich aroma of freshly brewed Colombian coffee drifting through the air.
Rising in the dorm room of coffee boutique hostel (highly recommended) tucked into the lush hills of Salento. The morning mist still clung to the trees outside, but inside, the warmth of a locally roasted brew and a simple, hearty breakfast and the worlds best hosel dogs set the tone for what was about to be an unforgettable day.
The trails of Cocora Valley are infamous for their deep, sticky, soul-sucking mud, especially after rainfall (which happens a lotttt). I grabbed a pair of wellies (rubber boots for you American readers) from reception, a necessity for tackling the trail; and threw on light, breathable but waterproof clothing. Ready for whatever the valley had in store. I headed to the main square of Salento where the jeeps for the Valley are located.
The Willy Jeep Ride into Colombia’s Wild Beauty
In Salento’s Plaza de Bolívar, a fleet of Willys Jeeps lined up, engines rumbling, ready to take eager adventurers to Cocora. These vintage 4x4s have been the workhorses of Colombia’s coffee region for decades, the open back and sides give you that sense of adventure that you simply do not get in the places like the UK where the just the idea of bouncing down the road in the back of a jeep would be quickly stubbed out by health and safety gone mad.
I handed over my fare for a return ticket, a golden tip for any visitor; this way, I could jump on any return Jeep when I was done hiking. No stress, no rigid schedule.
The Jeep ride itself was simply stunning, but Colombia just looks like that here. Every landscape, uninterrupted stretches of green pastures and hills, its the sort of place you could be a film set for a romantic and unlikely encounter. It does not matter if you are on the back of a jeep or on the main bus, Colombia provides breathtaking landscapes that stretch over the horizon. Whilst bus ride from Bogota to Salento was stunning, it just hits different when you are in the back of a jeep with the wind rushing past your face.
Hiking Cocora Valley Colombia
Arriving into Cocora Valley is an unusual experience. Towering wax palms, some stretching up to 60 meters (200 feet) high, swayed gently in the mist. These aren’t just trees; they’re Colombia’s national tree and the tallest palms in the world, creating a surreal Jurassic Park-esque landscape.
But here’s the twist; the wax palms weren’t always the dominant feature of this ecosystem. Their presence in open grasslands is actually the result of Spanish colonists introducing livestock centuries ago. As cattle grazed, native vegetation was wiped out, leaving only the towering palms standing like silent sentinels over a transformed landscape. A weird mix of history, ecology, and beauty; just the kind of place that fascinates an architect and nature lover like me.
There are two main hiking routes in Cocora Valley:
The Direct Route to the Palms: A shorter 1-hour walk that takes you straight to the iconic viewpoint of the valley.
The Full Loop Hike (6-7 Hours): A proper adventure that winds through cloud forests, suspension bridges, and hidden coffee huts before emerging into the valley of palms.
Now usually I would go for the full loop but when I say it was wet, I mean ... it was WET. The rain had turned the trail into a slippery, squelching mess, but with wellies on, I embraced and enjoyed the chaos of people (myself included) slipping over onto their arse. Staring the loop as though taking the full circuit you begin to hike up into the valley on some steep inclines which takes you deep into the Andean cloud forest, where mist curled around ancient trees, and hummingbirds zipped through the dense foliage. The biodiversity here is mind-blowing, rare orchids, towering ferns, and trees covered in moss, all thriving in the humid, high-altitude air. The layering of the eco system based on altitude is something I had learned about from Carlos the founder of Kasaguadua an eco lodge and conservation site in Salento you can tour separately.
As you progress through the Valley trail there are regular breaks to showcase the scenery. Its a gorgeous trail, even when the heavens are streaming.
Halfway through walking up to the viewing point, the skies really opened up. Torrential rain poured down, drenching the trail in seconds. All we could do was laugh at our circumstances and know that one day this will be a funny memory.
I few travellers and I ducked into a tiny coffee hut, one of several scattered along the trail, and found fellow hikers huddled together, laughing at our collective fate and grabbing a coffee we settled in to let the worst pass.
Finally the storm disappeared, however checking the weather app on my phone it was clear it would be back and once it was it would not be stopping! Just short of Finca La Montaña we decided to turn back. There is a lesson here about what time of year to visit Cocora (see below) We were about an hour and a half from the entrance, it seemed like the right decision as even with my best raincoat on hand, the rain was getting in. 5+ hours of mud and rain ahead just did not seem like asking for trouble.
Slowly we half walked half slid down the route back, The trail really is gorgeous, above you can see an image of 'red hot pokers' next to a stream, these are reaching high into the sky like the palm trees beyond! The stream is flanked by moss and grass, it was raining when I took these photos but the colour and the drama of the environment still scream out to you, its like god saying 'look what I can do'.
Back at the entrance the rain was still coming down so before hitting the Jeeps which were already filling up with exhausted but exhilarated hikers. But before heading back, we stopped at a small café near the trailhead. A hot chocolate to dry off and warm up a bit. It wasn’t cheap (tourist prices, of course), but thats to be expected.
Back in Salento: A Night of Tajo & Cold Beers
Returning to Salento my new travel buddies and I, were not quite ready for bed. Instead, we wandered into a rustic little bar filled with locals playing Tejo; Colombia’s national sport. Imagine throwing a heavy metal puck at gunpowder-filled targets, all while sipping a cold beer. The atmosphere is excellent, and filled with screams of people not expecting the explosions to take place! The game is an unusual one but a lot of fun, although personally I turned out to be a terrible shot!
Why Cocora Valley is a Must-Visit
If you’re in Colombia, skipping Cocora Valley would be a mistake. This place isn’t just about hiking; it’s a living, breathing piece of history in biodiversity form. Some describe it as a tragedy, as a living breathing embodiment of then effects of colonisation by the Spanish.
Best Time to Visit
December to February: The driest months, making for easier hiking.
March to November: More rain, but the landscapes are at their lushest. (I went in June and it was wet wet wet but green green green). As I mentioned above I went wanting to take the full circuit on but heavy and sideway rain put an end to this plan, the forecast for the week I was in Salento was similar so for me hitting Salento around the end of February is going to be the sweet spot!
Pro Tip: Get to the jeeps early to be one of the first to leave from Salento and enjoy the valley before the crowds arrive.
Where to Stay in Salento
The Best Places to Stay for Backpackers
The Best Places for Nature Lovers
Best for a slice of luxury
What to Pack for a day trip to Cocora Valley
🎒 The Right Backpack
🥾 Footwear
🧥 Clothing
🕶️ Sun & Bug Protection
💧 Hydration & Snacks
👮🏻♀️ Safety
Should you Visit Cocora Valley in Colombia?
The great thing about Cocora is that it tends to be away from the reams of holiday makers and tourists. Its more backpackers and explorer centric. Its Colombia's hiking playground. So if you are a hiking enthusiast, Cocora should be on your list. Beyond the Valley, Salento has coffee tours, eco tours, horse riding, its feels like a slice of quiet away from the bustling urban Bogota just a few hours up the road! If you want to know more about Salento then head to the Colombia travel guide page.
So ok I was slightly rain delayed in Cocora Valley but what is remarkable is that my next location (the Tatacoa Desert) would be the opposite story. Join me there to discover one of my favourite parts of Colombia.
Want more architectural and nature-inspired travel guides? 👉 Subscribe to Backpacker’s Blueprint on our home page and let’s unearth the world’s most incredible destinations together!
👉Take me to the South America page👈
For the intelligent explorer
We earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s a simple way to support Backpacker's Blueprint and helps us keep bringing you awesome travel content.
Thanks for the support! 🙌
✍️ Want to Write for Backpackers Blueprint? Are you a fellow traveler with a story to share? Passionate about architecture, how to explore it and how to read it or cultural deep dives? We’d love to feature your work! Drop us a message and let’s chat!
☕ Support Us on Buy Me a Coffee If you’ve found our content helpful or inspiring, consider buying us a coffee! Every little bit helps keep us on the road, creating more in-depth travel guides and sharing our adventures with you.
Cheers! 🚀
Comments