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NICARAGUA
BACKPACKING
NICARAGUA
This is one exciting country with a vibrant history. In Nicaragua, you will find interesting architecture, beach parties, jungle parties, volcano hikes (and boarding), all the surf spots, and of course the otherworldly Ometepe island. Combined with some fantastic hostels, this country feels like a backpackers Oasis. So lets get into Backpacking Nicaragua explorers.
Managua
Spanish
Córdoba
BACKPACKING NICARAGUA BLOG FOCUS
BACKPACKING NICARAGUA MUST STOPS
Backpacking Nicaragua Contents
North to south we will be going from Leon to Granada to San Juan Del Sur, Ometepe, with Popoyo as a side trip. Lets explore Nicaragua
BACKPACKING ROUTE
TAKE ME TO 0.5. SAN JUAN DEL SUR
TAKE ME TO 0.6. EL SALVADOR OR COSTA RICA
LEON
0.1.
Backpacking Nicaragua
Leon
The first stop (or last) Leon is a city that prides itself on being a safe and welcoming university city. Poetry and art never far away, Leon is home of the largest cathedral in Central America 'Cathedral-Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary'. Leon has a difficult and tragic history and one that you should know. I cannot recommend doing a walking tour here enough. The knowledge and insight you will gain is something that will stay with you forever.
Eat
Gallo Pinto
Drink
Local beer
Do
Walking tour
Cathedrals
Rooftop drinks
Volcano Boarding
Travel
Walk
Stay
Hostels
Time
1-2 Days
Where To Stay
Casa Lula León Hostal - £11-12 p/n Standard Dorm
Only on booking.com (click the house icon above to go directly there). At Casa Lula, you will get a warm welcome from the owners who have great local knowledge and will help you with the latest information on getting to Granada. This place has great hostel dogs a good kitchen and a chilled atmosphere.
Bigfoot Hostel - £7 p/n Standard dorm
Bigfoot is the place to book onto your volcano boarding day if you stay or not, if you do stay, expect a more traditional hostel with activities like beer pong and bar crawls, definitely a 'younger vibe'. A good place to meet backpackers.
Casa Lula
Friendly welcome
Volcano Boarding
Cerro Negro
What To Do In Leon
Volcano Boarding
This is one unusual activity that is not for the faint of heart but a lot of fun if you decide to have a go. We booked through big foot. It includes all the gear you need, and transportation to and from Cerro Negro, with a guide. The boarding is fun but the hike is and scenery are also very beautiful.
Free Walking Tour
Whilst in Leon, do the free walking tour. Leon has a history that is full of turmoil but also rich with stories of revolution and endeavor, the streets are muraled with art telling stories of Sandinista and student uprisings.
Sunset bar and boxing
We got lucky here. Boxing is big in Nicaragua and Leon puts on bouts in the public square once every couple of weeks. If you head to Bar El Mirador - Terraza for a sunset drink, you may be treated to a view of a few bouts in Cancha 23 de Julio. Hit the bar regardless of the boxing as it is a great spot for sunset.
Visit the Cathedral
The largest cathedral in Central America 'Cathedral-Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary'. Lets blueprint this one below ...
To Granada
or
Bus Time
From Leon you will need to take a taxi to Terminal de buses. This place is a bit of a culture shock, a big concrete carpark with buses everywhere, the buses will have their routes on the front. You will need one from Leon to Managua. From Managua you will need to change and find a bus for Granada. Be prepared for people to approach you with food and drinks, they do not just target you, this is pretty common up and down Nicaragua. Once you have found the right bus, find the person who looks like the driver and give them the nod, jump on the bus and they will approach you for payment, no ticket offices here!
GRANDA
0.2.
Backpacking Nicaragua
Granada
This town is a beautiful place that fronts onto Lake Nicaragua. Full of colourful well kept buildings, some beautiful churches and some awesome hostels. Granada really comes to life at night. Sunset booze cruises, beach parties, open mic nights, quizzes and the party unlike any other every Friday, the Tree House Hostel.
Eat
Plantane
Gallo Pinto
Drink
Shots
Do
Booze Cruise
Beach Party
Tree House
Walk the streets
Travel
Walk
Stay
Hostels
Time
2-3 Days
Where To Stay
Hostels
Three hostels have been working Granada for a while now and they are all good, they put on activities and events that are fun and geared around a good time for backpackers. If you stay a few days you will likely end up at all of them as each hold different events on different nights. Lets look at them.
Hostel Oasis Granada - £9-12 p/n Standard Dorm
Great kitchen, filtered water point, nice dorms a pool, clean showers. Gated entrance. Oasis feels like a hostel that was built around the needs of a backpackers and its provides it. You will meet people fairly easily here. My personal favorite having spent time in a few! We also booked onto the booze cruise/ beach party through oasis and has a fantastic night.
De Boca en Boca - £8 p/n Standard Room
De Boca is a great option if you are stretching your budget to its maximum. A bit smaller than Oasis, but nice courtyard that will likely hold a quiz night which is worth attending if you are staying or not!
The Madhouse - £8 p/n Standard Room
This place is known more for the parties than being the place to stay! But without doubt the parties here are fun and go into the night.
Hostel Oasis
Pool side
Maria Auxiladora
Chapel
What To Do In Granada
Explore the churches
There are a vast number of churches in Granada most accessible and there is some spectacular architecture and art on display. Maria Auxiladora is open during the day, unless there is a service on. Head over to Colonial House where for a small fee you can take the steps up to the bell tower for a view of the city. For the full history we will be bringing you a podcast soon so visit back. For now click the link below for a self guided tour.
Visit the Mercado
If you want to see a bit of local life, head into the Mercado located a few blocks south of the central plaza (and near oasis).
Sunset booze cruise
Oasis offer a sunset booze cruise and a beach party, it a lot of fun and set up well.
Tree House Party
Get tickets early from Oasis. The treehouse party is every Friday so make sure you are in town over the weekend. Stay in Granada on the Saturday unless you are good at travelling on a hangover! This party is unlike any other set up on a hillside in a tree canopy 30 minutes away from Granada, it is not to be missed. Jeeps leave at different times from Granada, take a beer for the road, its a 30 minute ride. There is a steep climb up to the tree house so trainers are a good idea. When you get there prepare for UV paint and pumping music and a firemans pole. Be sensible as you have to walk back down the steep path to get back to the shuttle. The shuttles leaving at different time depending on if you want an early exit, a late night/ early morning or something in the middle.
Food and Drink
Generally because the Granada is built around the backpacker you are going to find well equipped kitchens, Granada is a good one to cook for yourself and not feel like you are missing, but if you do want to get away and have dinner then head to central park where you will find the street La Calzada the best of the places probably being Monna Lisa.
Cordoba
Nicaragua
To San Juan, Ometepe
or
Shuttle or Public bus
The next stop on your adventure is likely going to be Ometepe or San Juan Del Sur, if you take public transport head to the Granada bus terminal and jump on a bus for Rivas. Rivas is one of the main terminal hubs in the south of Nicaragua. From here you can take find a bus to San Juan Del Sur or take a cab to San Jorge where you can get a ferry ticket to Ometepe.
If you want a hassle free journey then take a shuttle, just ask your hostel to book you onto one, it will stop at both San Jorge dock and San Juan Del Sur. Transport in Nicaragua is relatively cheap so a shuttle is not going to break the bank and will be a lot quicker. Rivas is a hard terminal to navigate in that there does not seem to be any organisation. Keep your wits about you and a close eye on your gear. This is a good place to practice sensible travel as there are are robbers on the prowl.
Ometepe
OMETEPE
0.3.
Backpacking Nicaragua
Ometepe
The island of two volcanoes, Ometepe is one for those seeking to enrich the soul. Known for its chocolate, yoga and sheer beauty this island will have you feeling connected to the earth and leave you full of gratitude for your being. Hiring a vehicle here is an absolute must, there are transport options but you will not be able to explore properly without some wheels. You will arrive into Moyogalpa which is on this opposite side of the island than you really want to be
Eat
Vegan
Pizza
Drink
Smoothies
Beer
Cocktails
Do
Beach Day
Yoga
Ride the island
Moon Party
Travel
Bike
Quad
Scooter
Stay
Hostels
Time
3-4 Days
Where To Stay
El Pital Chocolate Paradise £9 p/n
Set in a beautiful location on the waterfront with spacious dorms that are mosquito proof but open to the elements this hostel will deliver one of the best smoothies and breakfasts you will ever eat. Even if you are not staying the hostel provides daily yoga classes that are very popular so make sure you arrive early to secure a matt and a good position(click the house icon above to check out the accommodation). The showers and toilets are outdoors but clean.
El Zipolote - £9 p/n Standard Dorm
One for the more hardcore backpackers, think open to the elements, no power little wifi and not gleaming either. However free yoga classes and a pizza night that is famous in the area.
Ananda Guesthouse - £40 p/n luxury Room
If you are a couple and looking for something less 'backpackers dorm' then try Ananda Guest house, a bit more expensive but comfortable with beautiful views it is close enough to allow you at attend morning yoga classes or pop across to nearby restaurants.
El Pital
Sun Deck
Riding the Island
Ometepe
What To Do In Ometepe
Dinarte's Motorcycle Rental
This place has a great reputation for bike hire, I ride at home so picked up the biggest they had which was still only a 250cc bike but it was more than capable of handling the island. Ride both ring roads, some roads are tricky so take them slow but its a truly beautiful ride and a great way to spend a day hopping from town to town on the ring roads
Playa El Perú
If you want a beautiful sunset then head across to Playa El Peru. Take your swimming gear so you can take a dip. You will have to pay for parking here but it is minimal and worth it for the atmosphere.
Yoga
El pital is synonymous with great yoga. Start your day right by heading across and joining the daily class. If your timing is right, you may well be lucky enough to find a moon party taking place.
Pizza night
El Zipolte holds a pizza night which is a great way to get a really tasty pizza and meet fellow explorers.
Café Campestre
For some really nice food check out Cafe Campestre located near lazy crab hostel
Pizzeria Mediterranea bar ristorante
For some fantastic italian food and a really good glass of wine then across the road from El Zipolte you will find Pizzeria Mediterranea bar ristorante. A little more expensive than other places but the food is delicious.
Café Campestre
For some really nice food check out Cafe Campestre located near lazy crab hostel
Pizzeria Mediterranea
To San Juan, Popoyo
or
Back to Rivas
Top Tip. When heading back to the mainland once you have got off of the ferry, you will be met at the gates by a lot of taxi drivers, walk straight past them and you will find the shuttle bus that goes to Rivas, it costs peanuts and is a much better option for such a quick journey.
Lets talk Surfing
Once again we hit a fork in the road. If you are following us from Leon down then the next natural stop will be a surf spot from Rivas you can head down to San Juan Del Sur or if you want a bit of isolation and to do nothing but surf, then Popoyo may be a good option for you. Popoyo is tricky to get to however. If you are in a group, a taxi from Rivas may not be the worst option. We have a number for a guy who will be able to help with this but contact us for it as it would be unfair to publish it here. The alternative way to do it is to take a bus to Las Salinas, but you have to walk the final 15 minutes to Popoyo. So lets look at Popoyo before heading to San Juan Del Sur.
40 minute taxi
POPOYO
0.4.
Backpacking Nicaragua
Popoyo
Popoyo is the definition of isolation. If you are not surfing you are relaxing, eating or drinking. But if you are big on surfing then its a fantastic spot with Nicaragua's most consistent waves. It is not just for the pros, you can get lessons here. There is an area called beginners bay which is going to be a lot more quite than Maderas in San Juan Del Sur, so a good place to get some practice in. Boards can be rented from all the hostel or from people on the beach front if you do not want to carry a board, staying in Popoyo means a fairly length walk to beginners bay. Its worth noting that Popoyo is fairly expensive, because it is so isolated! So if you are able to take some groceries and cook for yourself then all the better. Also not the worst idea to take a bottle if you are looking for a tipple, because there is nothing much to do, its not hard to run up a bar tab!
Eat
Vegan
Pizza
Drink
Larger
Cocktails
Do
Surf
Stargaze
Travel
Walk
Stay
Hostels
Time
2 Days
Surfers 2+
Where To Stay
Escondite Pacifico £8 p/n
For solo backpackers Pacifico is right on the beach and has everything you will need, you will be able to book your lessons here and when not surfing relax at the bar.
The Barrel Hostel - £9 p/n
This place was literally like staying at a bar on the beach, the six person dorm was small but had a clean and modern bathroom and as an additional bonus, there was an AC unit. The bar is chilled has a pool table and is a good place to hang out after a surf session. Make sure you take a book or have a deck of cards.
In the evenings
Grab your friends, grab some beers, if you have a wireless speaker then even better, go sit on the beach and look at the stars into the night. A good advantage of the isolation is the light pollution is very low so watch the starts and get deep with chat about how small we are in the universe and how important it is to enjoy each day!
Food Tip - Red Pepper
In the evenings there is a place called Red Pepper that will open for two hours on certain days, the food is essentially the same for everyone in usually with a vegetarian or meat option, think you will have what we give you, but the food is excellent, tasty and of a generous portion. Served in a cute little courtyard there is a nice atmosphere. It does get busy, so arrive early to ensure a table else you could be queuing.
Popoyo Beach
Night Shot
To San Juan
or
Back to Rivas (again)
So naturally we need to do the Rivas trip in reverse, walk to Las Salinas (your hostel may drop you off) and wait for a bus which are not regular! Or taxi back to Rivas and find the right bus for San Juan Del Sur.
If you are feeling flush then taxi all the way to San Juan Del Sur! The whole jouney should be around 2 hours, 40 minutes in a taxi to Rivas and then just over an hour on the bus to San Juan Lets get there
2 hours later
SAN JUAN
DEL SUR
0.5.
Backpacking Nicaragua
San Juan Del Sur
San Juan Del Sur is known as the surf stop of Nicaragua but ironically you cannot surf the beach what you can do in San Juan Del Sur is eat well, drink well and party your bum off. You will hear the term 'Sunday Funday' as you get closer to San Juan or talk to other backpackers who have just been to San Juan Del Sur. This is what can only be described as a spring break style hostel pool crawl, think bikinis', swimming trunks and people with water guns loaded with alcohol! That is just sunday though so what to do with the rest of the week? The area is chilled out through the week with people playing volleyball on the beach or taking in some good food. Naturally, known for surfing there are some great spots nearby which we will go into below. Think of San Juan Del Sur as your base for exploring the coast line.
Eat
International
Drink
Coffee
Smoothies
Do
Surf
Sunday Funday
Travel
Walk
Stay
Hostels
Time
4-5 Days
Where To Stay
Hola Ola £10 p/n - for surf
Located just on the outskirts of San Juan Del Sur Hola Ola is a great hostel for solo travelers. Offering daily surf lessons, good breakfast options for cheap and a pool to lounge around when not surfing. This place is exellent for those who want to dedicate a week getting lessons. Hola Ola throw you into their shuttle put the boards on the roof and drive you to the best surf location that day. A personal Favourite in San Juan Del Sur, make sure you book early as it is often full.
Casa Ora - £8 p/n - for transit
The big yellow building is kind of a transport hub! Buy tickets for the shuttle from here. You can stay here very cheaply, but there is not much to cool you down which makes sleeping difficult. It has a harsh reviews but personally I oddly enjoyed staying here for a week whilst taking Spanish lessons across the road. Make sure you are in one of the upper dorms as the one at ground floor level is hotter than the sun and very dark!
Pachamama - for social
A bit of a party hostel, but a good place to meet backpackers its the first stop for Sunday funday, you also buy your tickets from here for the event.
Surf Town Hostel - a bit of everything
Just to the north of San Juan Del Sur Surf Town Hostel offers a good social scene, surf lessons and a party.
Hola Ola
Deck Area
San Juan Beach
Sunset
El Caite San Juan del Sur - Couples/ groups
If you are after a bit more comfort then perhaps try El Caite. More hotel than hostel but as a good price when split between a few of you. Should be an easier night sleep than most of the hostels.
What To Do In San Juan Del Sur
San Juan Beach
The main beach is a hub of activity with lots going on. with shops near by its a great place to grab a volley ball and some beers and have some fun in the sun. You will always find people watching the sunset and its a pretty magical one.
Visit Cristo de La Misericordia
San Juans answer to Brazils christ the redeemer, a 30 minute walk will get you up to the top, it is not overly steep so a good way to spend an afternoon. Take some water though!
Surf
Lets do the obvious one. As mentioned you cannot actually surf in San Juan so it will be your hub. The surfing beaches are as follows
Playa Maderas
The closest surfing beach to San Juan and because of that, it is always busy in the water, check the video for a look at Maderas surf! There are bars here for food and drink, even if you are not surfing its a nice beach to hang out at and watch others who are. A shuttle will take you from San Juan to Maderas but there are also a number of places to stay nearby like Hostel Clandestino Maderas and Buena Vista Surf Club. If you want to get away from the grittiness of San Juan Del Sur then these two hostels should see you right and give you a nice stay. You will be away from the 'main town' its around 30 minutes to get to San Juan by shuttle. If you have a scooter though and are travelling as a couple or group then staying in one of these two places will be the more, lets say romantic option! When at Maderas head up to Hush where you will get yet a stunning sunset view!
Playa Hermosa
Going north, a paid entry beach with some ok swell, this place is good for beginners as it is much quieter than Maderas, there is a restaurant on site where you can pick up some good food, fresh fish!
Playa Yankee
Sunset
Playa El Yankee
This place was next level, totally quiet, absolutely stunning beach. We stopped off to grab snacks and drinks before hitting the beach because there is nothing around. Go with people who know what they are doing as there is a bit of a rip. We hit this beach with Hola Ola and it ended up being a really memorable day, possibly one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen! Nicaragua should really be called land of the beautiful sunset!
Playa El Coco
Much further north is El Coco, a beautiful beach but less consistent surf, you have to pick your day for it and unfortunately we did not get one so left it to a next time. If you are wanting a private get away check out BnB La Veranera.
So they are your main beaches, lets get back to San Juan Del Sur for more of what is going on ...
Salsa Class Evening
On Monday and Fridays, a nice way to spend an evening is to hit up the salsa class as, Treecasa Resort. A shuttle runs from town to take you up there, grab some friends and head up, the resort is gorgeous and two for one cocktails will wait your arrival. Click the icon drink icon below to go to the website ... you wont regret it.
Treecasa
Salsa location
Sunday Funday $25 - 2023
Other than surfing the second known entity of San Juan Del Sur is the Sunday Funday hostel pool crawl. This is like the spring break of San Juan and starts at Pachamama where you will need to buy your ticket from! From there you will be shuttled up the hill to
The Naked Tiger
Here much of the same but with a lovely view before
Arribas
The final stop and a night club this one is quite a smart ploy because it is a nightclub on the beach that does not charge for entry! So once you are in, you are on your own for the rest of the night.
Tips
Eat, before Arribas dont worry the party will be going into the night, Keep hydrated (non alcohol) it can be hot and will help you stay sane and help the next day, and the biggest one, guy or girl, do not walk home alone along the beach at night, trust me on this! Ultimately, have fun and enjoy a wild Sunday.
The Naked Tiger
Sunday Funday
A splash of shopping
San Juan has some really nice surf shops if you want a good pair of shorts or to do dome window shopping then one street back you will find some cool shops one of the best being
Auric Surf
You can get unique clothes from here designed by the owner, all reasonably priced find yourself something unique to remember San Juan by.
Auric
Swimwear
Spanish School On The Corner
Opposite Casa Oro, Spanish School on the corner offers various classes. I did a 5 day course with a really lovely and patient local teacher. Staying in casa Oro for £8 a night it was a really economical way to advance speaking skills. After learning during the day you have the beach and the restaurants and bars of San Juan Del Sur to keep you busy. Click the speach bubbles above below for a link to the schools home page.
Food and drink
San Juan has a great array of food and drink, there are great vegan options, tasty smoothies and everything in between. Lets have a look at a few from your morning coffee to the evening bars
La Tostaderia San Juan del Sur - Morning Coffee
For the 'proper' coffee lovers, bean to cup barista made coffee, I am not sure where the beans are from but a light coffee that is perfect to for a morning walk along the beach. These guys also do good food if you want to sit in as a breakfast option
Simon Says - Breakfast/ Lunch
This place is set in a beautiful court yard and serves up a very generous and very health breakfast at a good price point.
The Art Warehouse - Breakfast/Lunch
Possibly the best smoothy in San Juan Del Sur and a delicious breakfast.
La Tostaderia
Cafe
Saused
Courtyard
Dale Pues - Dinner
A good range of foods all cooked including vegan and vegetarian options in a nice clean environment.
Comedor Clementina - Authentic Dinner
Located near the bus terminal this small market space offers quick food at a cheap price point from a Nicaraguan menu.
Saused - Dinner
No thrills just good pizza in a nice setting and easy option for dinner.
Iguana Bar - Evening Drinks (other than hotels)
For the worlds most spicey Bloody Mary hit Iguana, the upstairs deck has a beautiful sunset view fresh made cocktails or beers at a resonable price! I ended up using this space to research the border crossing and where to stay in Costa Rica!
San Juan del Sur Cervecería
Craft beer in Suan Juan. Nice beer in a nice setting a good way to sample some locally made beers.
Costa rica time
or
Crossing the Boarder to Costa Rica
This one is fairly simple! There is one main boarder crossing to get into Costa Rica it is at Peñas Blancas and not a busy crossing. If you want one, you will be able to find a boarder crossing buddy in San Juan Del Sur as there are always be people backpacking into Costa Rica.
From San Juan, if you want to opt for public transport head to La Virgen where a bus should be going to the boarder. (This is what a few of us did) but after a long wait and no sign of a bus we ended up jumping into a taxi to take us to Peñas Blancas. The driver managed to cram 5 of us into his car so the costs were minimal when split. The easier way to do this would be to simply book a shuttle from the hostel!
Immigration will ask you are staying and may want proof so be prepared for this. Once through however it really is as easy as jumping on a bus on the other side of the boarder to get to Liberia. Spend the night in Liberia, follow on to found out how where to stay
To Liberia
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