Lake Atitlan The History For Explorers
Having stopped of in Lake Atitlán, during our time in Guatemala we can say hand on heart that this place is truly beautiful. But
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GUATEMALA
BACKPACKING
GUATEMALA
If you cross into Guatemala from Belize or Mexico, you are about to leave the holiday tourist behind and get the true backpacker feel. Rides quickly become less comfortable but things will also become a lot cheaper. Guatemala is full of happy friendly people, maybe because the country is simply stunning and has so much to offer. From exploring the jungles, to partying at the lakes, hiking volcanoes, surfing the coast or chilling out in the beautiful city of Antique; Guatemala will capture your heart.
OUR GUATEMALA JOURNEY
BACKPACKING GUATEMALA
The first stop in this beautiful country is usually Flores. Because of this we will be starting here and working our way south through the country. Get ready for some of the most spectacular sites and scenery you will ever see.
ROUTE
TAKE ME TO 0.1 FLORES & 0.2 TIKALS
TAKE ME TO 0.6 VOLCANOE ACATENANGO
TAKE ME TO 0.7 EL PAREDON (coming soon)
TAKE ME TO NICARAGUA/ MEXICO/ HONDORUS
FLORES
0.1.
Backpacking Flores
Flores is often referred to as "Flores Island" and is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture. The town served as a strategic location during the Spanish colonization of Guatemala and was an important settlement in the region.
Situated on an island in Lake Petén Itzá, it offers beautiful views and recreational opportunities. Visitors can enjoy boating, swimming, and other water-based activities on the lake.
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Eat
Gallo Pinto
Drink
Smoothies
Cocktails
Do
Tikal
Sunset boating
Swim
Explore
Travel
Walk
Stay
Hostels
Time
2-3 Days
Where To Stay
Hostels
The one name that will role of the tongue when you ask fellow backpackers where to stay is ...
Los Amigos - £12-15 p/n Standard Dorm
This hostel is a must stay. ESPECIALLY if you are travelling south. As you step off of of the tourist trail and into the world of backpacking the people you meet at this hostel will be undertaking a similar journey. Make friends and the likelihood is you will keep bumping into each other as you go! This hostel is not just good because of this however, it is a very cool hostel with a good kitchen and a great place to book activities, check out Los Amigos website, its has tour options and you can book a room directly.
Alice Guest House - £10 p/n Standard Room
If you want to stay outside of Flores and experience an Eco lodge surrounded by jungle then Alice Guest House is a beautiful spot and a reasonable prince. A few minutes walk from the lake you feel like you have left the world behind. To get there you will need Terminal Transportes Fuente Del Norte. Once at the terminal someone will see you ask you where you are going and then point at a bus, at which point a bit of blind faith comes into play. Always ask the driver to confirm your stop is on their route. Alternatively share a taxi, between a group of you, the cost will not be much different.
Los Amigos
Hostel
Flores
Streets
What To Do In Flores
Explore the Streets
You can walk around Flores in a few hours. Surrounded by water each street will eventually twist and turn you to the water. At the highest point is Plaza Parque Central where you will find Cathedral of Our Lady of Los Remedios.
Swim in the Lake
On the west side of Flores you will find restaurant Casa Blanca, next to the restaurant is a small stepped section giving access to the water, you will probably see locals swimming around here.
Sunset booze cruise
Book this through Los Amigos as a great way to meet some fellow backpackers and enjoy a drink or two whilst watching the sunset
Visit the Ruins
Tikal is the most known in the area and its one of the most impressive sites you will ever visit!
0.2.
Tikal Sunrise
230Q (£25) 3am Start!
Tikal usually has three options sunrise, midday or sunset. Once in the park you will have a set amount of time before the shuttle will journey home. We went sunrise which was very foggy (of course). But on the plus side, it was very quiet!
Standing atop Templo IV with two friends the fog slowly began to lift. With the sound of howler moneys from every side Tikal began to reveal itself in all its magnificent glory. Having stayed at the top for around an hour we were gifted with a view that will forever make smile.
Templo IV is the furthest away from the site entrance, so if you do the sunrise and quick hike across to it, you may have the top of the Templo to yourself much like we did!
The other option here would be to do the sunset, you will much more likely have clear sky rather than the fog that we did and most tourists will have dispersed by this time, it is also slightly cheaper at 165Q (£17.5).
The scale of the Mayan architecture and the way it is nestled into the environment leaves you pontificating about how we go about building on the face of the earth. If you would like an in depth look at the history and architecture of these magnificent buildings subscribe as we are working on bringing one to you.
Tikal
Templo IV
Flores
Market Kitchen
Food and Drink
Los Amigos
The food in Flores is not going to blow you away, but Amigos has a great kitchen and there is a large super market (La Torre) on the other side of the entrance bridge for Flores. Alternatively Amigos do have a menu and the food is not to bad here, easy for a 'cozy night in option' if you do not want to cook.
Tacos Los Peces
A more traditional take away taco bar with cheap Tacos that will fill a hole!
Terrazzo, Ristorante E Bar
With a view of the waterfront and a nice terrace area this place will serve you everything from pizza to pasta, cocktails are reasonably prices with the food slightly more expensive. But
Cool Beans
A casual coffee shop with breakfast and light lunch options, Cool Beans Café is a popular choice with views over the lake.
To Semuc Champey
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Shuttle Bus Time
The easiest way to get from Flores to Semuc Champey is by shuttle, book this through your hostels and be prepared for a really beautiful journey that includes a water crossing! Click below for more information.
12 hours later
SEMUC CHAMPEY
0.3.
Backpacking Semuc Champey
Between Flores and Lake Atilan is Semuc Champey, the perfect middle point but still a good 12 hours down the road, most people stay in San Agustín Lanquín. Semuc Champey is often considered one of the most beautiful natural spots in Guatemala and is a popular destination for travelers seeking adventure and natural beauty.
You will need a day to visit Semuc and beyond this the reasons to stay will be around the beauty of the hostels and relaxation. You will not need longer than 3 days here as Lake Atitlan awaits.
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Eat
Gallo Pinto
Drink
Smoothies
Cocktails
Do
Semuc Champey
Rope swings
Tubing
Travel
Walk
Truck
Stay
Hostels
Time
1-2 Days
Where To Stay
Hostels
The one name that will role of the tongue when you ask fellow backpackers where to stay is ...
Zephyr - £17-22 (2 night min)
Zephyr Lodge is renowned for its vibrant and social atmosphere, making it a great place to meet fellow travelers. Zephyr offer social activities like water tubing or pool tournaments. The lodge has a restaurant and bar on-site, offering a menu of both local and international dishes. It's a convenient place to enjoy meals and drinks while taking in the beautiful views. You can also book your day trip to Semuc Champey from here.
El Retiro Lodge - £11 p/n Standard Dorm
Right on the river front with a rope swing really nice bar and great food. El Retiro also has a sauna next to the river so you can get your sweat on before cooling off in the river. We stayed here and went up to Zephyr for sunset cocktails and pool. You can also book your day trip to Semuc Champey from El Retiro. Both Hostels will give you a great stay.
Zephyr Lodge
Hostel
Semuc Champey
Viewpoint
What To Do In San Agustín Lanquín
Visit Semuc Champey
Lets start with the obvious. Booking a day trip into Semuc Champey will give you a fun journey there, exploration of a cave, tubing down a river river diving sport at the Semic waterfall and a visit to both the view point and the natural pools! I really incredible day that will leave you with a bit smile.
Tubing the river
From Zephy you can hire tubes head down to the river with your favorite beer and away you go. Stop off at El Retiro for lunch and to have some fun on the rope swing.
Evening party
Depending on which nights you are in Semuc, one of the hostels will have some sort of event. Have dinner at Zephyr before heading to the music.
To Lake Atitlan
or
Shuttle Bus Time
The easiest way to get from Semuc Champey to lake Atitlan is by shuttle, book this through your hostels and be prepared for a really fun journey! The Shuttle will drop you into Panajachel where it is worth booking into a hostel for one night as the bus journey arrival time can be unpredictable.
12+ hours later
LAKE ATITLAN
0.4.
Backpacking Lake Atitlán
Often referred to as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, Atitlan could have a travel book of its own. The lake is surrounded by three towering volcanoes, including Volcán San Pedro, Volcán Tolimán, and Volcán Atitlán. Backpackers can get so enchanted by this place that they spend weeks here, there is so much to explore, such a fun place and you get great value for money. Not only this, it is a fantastic place to do a home stay to level up your spanish speaking and listening skills. A home stay will usually consist of a week long stay with breakfast lunch and dinner as well as Spanish lessons.
From Semuc you will arrive in Panajachel late in the evening. After a long day of travelling it is worth spending a night. Pana is the gritty transport hub to the rest of the lake much like San Jose city is to Costa Rica. Nonetheless, you will still find some good food and the drinks will be flowing if you are looking for a party. In the morning the boat taxis will allow you to explore this magical place. We are going to touch Panajachel, Santa Cruz, San Marcos and finally San Pedro each town here and put together Lake Atitlan with more in-depth information but lets get through it with the Eat, drink, do so you know the most important spots
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Eat
Pepián
Kaq'ik
Chiles Rellenos
Tamales
Rellenitos
Fried Fish
Drink
Smoothies
Cocktails
Coffee
Do
Yoga
Sunrise Hikes
Party
Shop
Cliff jumping
Swim/ SUP
Indian Nose
Travel
Walk
Boat
Tuc Tuc
Stay
Hostels
Eco Lodge
Camp
Time
4+ Days
The Towns
Panajachel
Panajachel is a hub for ferry services that connect the town to other villages around the lake. Calle Santander is full of shops, restaurants and bars that will keep you busy.
Best Bars
Pana Rock, Circus Bar and Simoneta Mixology Cantina will keep you partying into the night.
Best Restaurants
The Little Spoon - Vegetarian options reasonable prices and good food, highly recommended.
Restaurante Lena’s Atlantis - bar type classics, think burger and chips in an interesting interior.
Deli Jasmin - healthy options for breakfast with coffee and smoothies.
Hostels - Dream Boat Dorm £11 p/n
Highly rated with a bar on the roof and a view over the lakes, it is definitely a hostel where you will find a party and a lot of backpackers. Stay one night and jump on a boat the next day to get to the next town.
Panajachel
Dock
San Marcos
Street front
Santa Cruz la Laguna
Most people head to Santa Cruz to stay at the Iconic Free Cerveza Hostel. The main things to do here are generally hikes but Free Cerveza offers an array of things to do in a beautiful setting pitching itself as somewhat of a holiday camp! Click below for more:
San Marcos La Laguna
A cute place for a day trip San Marco is a tiny village that has great cliff diving spots, some easy walks with stunning views, a really cute shopping experience and a market shopping vibe. Many yoga and meditation retreats are based here, and you'll find numerous holistic healing centers, vegetarian and vegan restaurants, and wellness workshops.
Konojel Restaurant
Check out Konojel for some really tasty food in a really cute restaurant.
San Pedro La Laguna
The backpackers hot spot San Pedro is home to incredible food, bars, parties, markets and art. When travelling we made this our home for over a week and had a comfortable stay in Hotel AmiGos.
Best Bars
If you are feeling a bit home sick check out The Alegre Pub, a bit of a dive bar that serves pints and has sports screens. For a chilled evening at a bar with a view of the water, table tennis tables and jengas on tap, Bar Sublime is your place. If you want to find the party, then head over to Mr. Mullets where you will find a roof bar with the shots flowing. Realistically there will be an event like a beach party, San Pedro KNOWS how to throw a party so make sure to ask your hostel where the party is at.
Food
Great news you are in for a treat, there are some fantastic food spots here. For breakfast Sababa Restaurant has great coffee, smoothies and tasty options, it is small and popular so go for opening time else you could be waiting. Down the road is Pita Sabij, great for vegan options in a beautiful setting. For a local gem unknown to most look for
Hotel Amigos
San Pedro
Indian Nose
View point
Indian Nose - circa £50 p/p
Hiking Time
One of the must do hikes when at the lakes is the Indian Nose. So called due to its profile when looking at the ridge line from the ground, the nose is a beautiful spot to take in the sunrise across the lake. A magical way to spend a morning, you will be presented with a breathtaking view.
You will hear stories here that you should not undertake this hike without a guide and that is perhaps good advice. Whist we met people who undertook the climb on their own, it is said that there are people who prey upon tourists. Thus paying for a guide is possibly the best way to do this. Not only this you will get to share the experience with other backpackers your admission will be taken care of and when going for sunrise it is pitch black so just finding the trail would be tricky. You will be picked up extremely early. Have a short ride by shuttle to the start of a small hike (around 45 minutes). Not an overly tough one but take water and a snack to keep you going.
This is a popular trail with almost all hostels offering a tour, so make sure you ask at reception for the costs when you arrive.
El Paradon, Antigua
or
Next Destination Surf or City?
From Atitlan, some people peel off and head across to El Paradon surf town, and some people head to Antigua. We went to Antigua to take on the Acatenango and Fuego volcanoe hike. Of course no backpacking trip is complete without a shuttle break down. So here we are doing a bit of chicken bus watching whilst waiting for rescue, before arriving into Antigua later that evening. The journey is only a few hours but we arrived around 7pm (due to the break down).
We booked our shuttle through Maya Atitlan Travél Center (reviews hit and miss) but our trip to Antigua was fairly straight forward (other than the above).
4 hours later
Break Down
To Antigua
ANTIGUA
0.5.
Backpacking Antigua
This city is truly special, made up of colonial Spanish architecture, the street frontages are often solid opening up to plazas and squares for cathedrals or churches. The solid frontage of the traditional historic villas/ houses open up within to a courtyard garden. Kept immaculate each courtyard has its own personality and beauty. As you walk past the solid fronted villas on the cobbled streets, you area able to catch glimpses of these gardens, leaving you desperate to 'just be able to get in'. Some of these courtyards are utilised for bars and restaurants, some as galleries. These beautiful buildings have been used to maximum effect by hostels, no matter where you stay you will be met with the most beautiful private spaces to relax, read, catch up with friends. This historic city is one you will want to stay in for a long time.
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Eat
International options
Drink
Coffee
Smoothies
IPA
Do
Coffee Tour
Cerro de La Cruz
Convento Capuchinas
Architecture Tour
Travel
Walk
Taxi
Stay
Hostels
Time
4-5 Days
Where To Stay
Maya Papaya £12-20 p/n 4 bed dorm
Female only dorms available. Before taking on Acatenango we wanted a few comfortable nights sleep so booked into Maya Papaya. This hostel has really comfortable beds and clean bathrooms. The kitchen is well equipped, breakfast is included and there are multiple hangouts. Easily recommended and would happily stay again, but ... I would say the same again about the next recommendation
Ojala £18 p/n 4 bed dorm
This place is absolutely beautiful and well maintained. A bit more expensive at £18 per night but if you want another comfy bed then do not hesitate to book this place. The showers are more sparse so you could be waiting but the water pressure is fantastic and the bathrooms are clean and modern. Really nice cafe /bar attached with a fantastic espresso on offer. Beautiful peaceful gardens and seating areas. You will not be disappointed.
Maya Papaya
Hostel
Hostal Antigueno
Garden
Hostal Antigüeño £8-10 p/n
For a budget option at just £10 a night Hostal Antigüeño offers a comfortable space with garden area, more rustic bathrooms but generally a nice hostel with a welcoming atmosphere. I stayed in the 12 bed dorm which provides a 'capsule' like bed, which feels nice and private.
Adra Hostel £11-14 p/n 24 bed dorm!
Adra is unusual in that is has a 24 bed dorm, so I wanted to stay here for the novelty of it. beds stacked three high in a massive room its an unusual experience but naturally you need ear plugs as people come and go all hours. The beds are comfortable and reasonably private but you are not near your lockers and you feel on edge not to wake anyone up! Staying just one night before heading to Leon, it as a nice place for a good beer in a relaxing courtyard before heading on.
Barbara's Boutique Hostel £14 p/n
We did not stay here, but I have heard it mentioned several times to good review, so wanted to give it an honorable mention. At 14 per night it is a good price point and located fairly central with breakfast included, let us know if you stay hear and how you found it.
What To Do In Antigua
Cerro de La Cruz
In English, 'Hill of the cross' this view point is a stunning spot to look over Antigua from, a nice light uphill walk that will give a view of Volcan Agua.
Coffee Tour
Take a taxi up to Finca Filadelfia (uber works in antigua). Here you can get a coffee plantation tour. A nice insight to the coffee process in a beautiful setting with a tasting after. A taxi can only take you to the gate so you have to walk the rest of the way in and provide your name and show ID to security.
Convento Capuchinas
This convent is renowned for its striking architecture, particularly the beautifully preserved ruins. The Convento de las Capuchinas features a classic colonial design with picturesque courtyards, arches, and well-preserved chapels.
Architecture Tour
With its deep history, Antiqua also has some stunning architecture and public spaces to explore check out our blog post for a self guided walking tour of notable buildings.
Cerra de La Cruz
Viewpoint
La Pasta Nostra
Italian
Food and Drink
Antigua does everything well and there are a plethora of restaurants that will see you right. I usually like to 'eat like a local' but this is one situation where the cuisine is so good that you should get your fill, especially if heading south to Nicaragua as the international cuisine will be much harder to come by. Below are a selection on reasonably priced restaurant options from all areas of the globe. The truth is you are spoil for choice so narrowing it down is not easy but we have given it a shot.
La Pasta Nostra
La Pasta Nostra comes highly recommended. Fresh Italian pasta and Pizza, that is so good that one of the guys I was travelling with through Guatemala went back three times!
SKÅL Antigua
Danish Bar and Restaurant in central America! Yes this place truly has international cuisine! Good beer good food in a beautiful courtyard. In that same courtyard is ...
La Bruja
A vegan restaurant that serves up a build your own burger with chips. If you want to head back to Mexico then vegan tacos are on offer. Click the fork below for the menu in english and spanish.
Kombu Ramen Shop
Why not Japanese? If you are missing a Ramen then Kombu is your place (you see what I mean about international food!) Again Click the fork below for the menu in english and spanish.
Toko Baru
Curry (yay) Toko Baru has good vegetarian options and vegan option so everyone is covered. If you are looking for a bit of a spice kick then head across to Toko.
Coffee
Bars
Sky Cafe
For a good coffee sky cafe has a beautiful rooftop with a killer view over Antigua, they also do very good food and smoothies, but the price
Patio de la Primera
For a beautiful more rustic setting Patio del la Primera is good for a coffee, a bit more formal and expensive but you can get a croissant from here so if you are missing French patisseries then look no further!
El Gran Café & Alegría Café
Just off the central park both of these cafes will give you a good cup of joe. A great way to break up the day if you are shopping or exploring the streets.
Sky Cafe
Rooftop
Reilly's Antigua
Pool, darts and drinks, a place to clear the head from all the thoughts of how to get to the next place.
El Ilegal
Tucked away a slender little joint that is a perfect spot to sit and chat
Las Palmas
If you are after live music check out Las Palmas. where you can find cocktails and food in a colourful setting.
Volcano time
Time to take on Acatenango
No trip to Guatemala would be complete without taking on the hike of Acatenango and Fuego. Its not for the faint of heart but also very manageable. If you are fairly active then you should be able to turn up and take on the hike, however the altitude can hit. Lets look at this one in more detail through a special blueprint series
Acatenango
Who does not want to watch an active volcano whilst camping on a dormant volcano? In this Blueprint Series we will look at one of the most famous excursions in Guatemala, hiking Acatenango and Fuego.
To Nicaragua
or
Shuttle Bus Time
From Antigua you have various options, we opted to take a 20 hour shuttle from Antigua directly to Leon in Nicaragua due to some disturbances in Hondoras and El Salvador. To find out more about the crossing check out the blog post 'Crossing Boarders' by clicking the smiley face below.
Where Next?
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